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Thread: 1957 cj-5

  1. #31
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    If the previous guy tightened the pan bolts "farmer tight" (as tight as they will go, then another half-turn) and overcompressed the pan gasket, you may have enough ripple and distortion to the bolt flange on the pan that getting a seal will be a problem. A flat flange seals up nicely with just a fresh gasket and PermaTex High Tak, but if there is a ripple in the pan, you may need something more flexible to conform to the waves and ripples.

    Good luck

  2. #32
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    Hey, watch it talking about us farmers! The rule is to tighten until right before it twists off you know. Actually most of the farmers I know are either pretty good mechanics or don't mechanic at all. But the pan looks pretty good. Looks like something poked a small hole up toward the front and it got patched. Glad I pulled it off because the silicone was squished to the inside worse than it was to the outside. I peeled at least a small handful of clear silicone around the inside. Jeep15.jpg (59.3 KB)
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  3. #33
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Farmer Tight

    Hey, I'm a farm boy - at least I started out there.

    I've seen my GrandPa put one of those old square headed adjustable wrenches that look like a pipe wrench on a square nut, then take a 2-pound hammer and whack it a couple of times to get it good and tight.

    Now that you have the pan off, are you going to take off any bearing caps to look at bearings and crank conditions?

  4. #34
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    Well, I hadn't thought of that. I did push on them and could get a little side to side movement but no up and down. The motor ran and sounded so good I thought I was OK there.

  5. #35
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    Okiemark, awesome job. Your jeep is turning out great and look's like your having lots of fun. Like your garage and work area. You have inspired me to convert mine to a better work place. Still trying to work out the issues with the wifey why my jeeps inside and her car is outside. O well !!! Keep sending in your pictures. Love seeing you transform that jeep into a masterpiece. Jim

  6. #36
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by okiemark View Post
    Well, I hadn't thought of that. I did push on them and could get a little side to side movement but no up and down. The motor ran and sounded so good I thought I was OK there.
    If you don't want to "crack the caps" and take a peak, Be sure of a few things since you are close to being right on top of any problems. Since it ran well and no knocking sounds, it would indicate nothing is catastrophic in the bearings. If it had good oil pressure, more than 2 at idle and at least 40psi, while running warm, with 30 weight oil, You are probably safe in not pulling the caps. A little side to side play should not exceed .010" inch measured with a feeler gauge (at least not by much).

  7. #37
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    Well, there was no oil pressure gauge, so I can't say for sure about the oil pressure. I'll take another look. Would new rod bearings get the side play back to normal if that is a problem and will the bearings say on them if they are standard?

  8. #38
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    No the side to side is controlled by the rods and crank themselves. I doubt there is a problem there, unless you spun a bearing. You would know that by the knocking sound when it was running.

    Yes the bearings should say on the backside. They will be stamped std,.010 etc. It wouldn't hurt to take a look at the #1 rod bearing if you had any concerns at all. That's the weak link in the L and F 134's. That bearing is a little "starved" for oil at idle and low RPM.

  9. #39
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    Maybe I didn't say it right. The movement was front to back actually, side to side might have been misleading.

  10. #40
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I think I understood what you mean. Front to back on the engine or side to side on the rod.

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