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Thread: Hello, I am new to the forum and the new owner of a 1962 M38A1.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    Before you start taking off the water pump, look carefully at the leak. There is a weep hole in the bottom of the water pump casing that will drip water if the seals on the pump shaft are bad.

    I'd hate for you to go to the work of pulling the pump and find that the gasket was good - the seals were bad. Personally, I would suspect the seals over the gasket.

    If it isn't pizzling badly (a technical term), I'd suggest living with it for a while until you get a bit deeper and generate a list of to-do chores.
    8

    Its dripping pretty steady. It looks like where the pump would seal against the block. Not sure about the seals. Can just the seals be replaced or need a new water pump? Do I have to remove the water pump to replace seals, will need new gasket anyways if so.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    AZRROOPER, go to here https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ty-Truck-M38A1 on the forum. This is in the Tech Section. Take a look at Chapter 4 section XIII. That might help you get familiar with rebuilding it. The Universal Jeep Manual will also help a lot. It shows the removal and replacement process. It is for the Civilian Jeeps but, there are many similarities. I am going to try to post the TM9-804a to the tech section, as soon as Amy or Rachel our Forum, gets back. It shows the R&R of engine accessories in Military fashion.

    The weep hole Larry is referring to is on the bottom of the pump under the shaft. When it leaks it usually runs back towards the motor and runs down the front of the block. It has a leather "Unobtainium" seal that dries out or wears out. When it goes water drips out of that hole. If you can find an Auto Parts store that will lend you a cooling system pressure tester, you can save yourself the guess work.

    It goes on in place of the radiator cap. It has a hand pump and a gauge. You give it a few pumps of air. The cooling system on the 134's is low pressure. About 6lbs is all it likes. If you pump the pressure on the tester up to 4 to 6lbs and there are any leaks, the water will come out at the leak spots.

    It sounds like you lost the water pump. It is replaced as a unit. It can be rebuilt. I tried and failed! I recommend a factory rebuilt unit from KW, once you are sure it is the water pump. And it will need a new gasket and fresh Anti-Freeze.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-30-2019 at 07:47 AM.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Pizzling Water Pump

    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    It sounds like you lost the water pump. It is replaced as a unit. It can be rebuilt. I tried and failed! I recommend a factory rebuilt unit from KW, once you are sure it is the water pump. And it will need a new gasket and fresh Anti-Freeze.
    I'd try to borrow the pressure tester. With a little pressure, the pizzle becomes a spurt and you'll know just where to look.

    You can buy a repair kit for about $35.00 and skin knuckles, teach the grand kids some new words and still have a leak - or buy a new pump (KWAS 800002) for about $68.00 and just be done with it. It ain't worth fixin'. You're gonna find things that really are worth fixing later on. Don't wear yourself out early.

    (We're not making fun of you or your problem - I replaced the pump on the '48 as well.)

  4. #14
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    As LarrBeard and Bmorgil stated, it is in your best interest to obtain a factory rebuilt unit. You'll find religion trying to replace the shaft in your original, or at least to get it to stop leaking.

    Just make sure that you get the 800002 offered by KW, because the civilian pumps are longer on the pulley end, and the belts will not align.

  5. #15
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    I think a new pump would be a good investment on something that hasn't run for quite a while. As for scraping knuckles, I think this jeep has caused me to hit my hand with a hammer more than anything I have ever worked on.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Hammer divits in the web of your hand builds character.... But if you could avoid it, by all means use the reman.

  7. #17
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post

    (We're not making fun of you or your problem - I replaced the pump on the '48 as well.)
    Haha! Clearly making fun of ourselves. I have replaced mine after a meticulous rebuild of the original pump. I took all the steps including milling the seal surface flat. I was lucky I fired the motor up in the frame without the body. It SPEWED water and anti-freeze all over the floor and the front of the motor. I then replaced it with a KW. Sweet sailing now. I am going to guarantee many on this forum have replaced a water pump on a 134 Willys.

  8. #18
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    Hi guys, I think a "new" pump is gonna be the way I go. I have a new issue. I think I have fuel in my oil. The previous owner put an electronic fuel pump on it and I am wondering if it too much pressure and the fuel is getting by the rings.

    Was just thinking about this. I am not sure about the pressure theory. It would still be only so much as the jet would restrict it. ????
    Last edited by AZTROOPER; 01-05-2020 at 02:03 PM.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Is the mechanical fuel pump still hooked up along with the electric pump? If so I would suspect the diaphragm in the mechanical pump has a hole in it.

  10. #20
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    Hello bmorgil, I think it is still hooked up. What are your thoughts on just replacing the whole pump with an OE mechanical pump? I am not sure why he put on the electric pump. I also ordered a carburetor kit for my 950SA6. I have never rebuilt a carb.

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