Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Closed Knuckle and Steering Box Lubrication

  1. #1
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,546

    Closed Knuckle and Steering Box Lubrication

    Do not use 140W axle gear or Transmission gear lubes, they will leak out much faster, and not provide the correct protection. It is an EP lube. It is the same lube for the steering box.

    If you are sticking with the "Bendix" type joint or, open bearing style and a sealed knuckle, make sure you use an EP type grease. All types of automotive "torque transmission through an angle devices" require Extreme Pressure grease. If you google Grease for Closed Knuckle Axles and Manual Steering Boxes you will get a few choices. The lube is referred to sometimes as a "00" grade. It is the same stuff you might be using in your steering box. It cannot flow. It needs to be thick like honey. It reminds me of STP engine treatment from the 60's and 70's. A little thicker, for the steering box use https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis...X%20GREASE.pdf

    There is a lot out there on what to use. Use something made for the closed knuckle Dana axle. Don't mix your own. Here's the deal. The knuckle cavity is "sealed" by the gaskets, wipers and seals. The "King Pin Bearings" are not and, the U-Joints had their seals removed or, are not a sealed design.The idea was to run everything in a bath of lube. A large bath of lube. This was good when it was OK to loose a little lube to the environment, as long as you refilled. They leak. Use something like this https://torqueking.com/product/777/c...4-front-axles/

    Here is what I recommended at Tech Service to "Closed Knuckle users" that wanted to "upgrade". Treat the king pin bearings like wheel bearings. Pack them well and install. Use SEALED re-greasable or, Lifetime lubricated non-greasable U-Joints. USE all the seals and gaskets. This will create a "Dry" sealed environment. You need to remember that if you do this, you need to re-pack the king pin bearings every now and then and, grease the U-Joint if it is greasable. Wet the felt seal with some ATF so the seal wipes the knuckle easily when turning. For u-Joints I prefer the top of the line SPICER sealed Lifetime non re-lubeable 5-760X for the Model 30/44 or the 5-260X for the Model 25/27. They are the strongest and, will last a long time. They are not cross drilled. This gives them a higher torque capacity.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-15-2024 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Correct URL, clarify, add link

  2. #2

    closed knuckle lube

    I finally found the right lube and its sold just for this purpose by Torque King 4x4 . I rebuilt hundreds of 2 1/2 and 5 ton axles in the Army so I know what a mess this can be. On Army trucks the king pin bearings are greased with a zerk fitting so they do not rely on slash lubrication but the axle joint and bushings do. I think this will help.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-15-2024 at 07:53 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    577
    This is where the old guy who knows because he did it is an essential worker... !!!

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,546
    Yes the Torque King https://torqueking.com/product/777/c...4-front-axles/ for the knuckles and for the steering box and here is another source: https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis...X%20GREASE.pdf

    There is so much confusion on this one because so much has been used. Basically if it is an Extreme Pressure lube and fairly thick (i.e. Hypoid Gear Oil GL5 not GL4, or Extreme Pressure Grease etc.) No harm will come. The Gear oils are too thin at ambient temperature for the old box. It isn't going to ruin anything, just might be a little loose feeling because it isn't the right viscosity at the temperature it is running at. It is likely to leak out eventually. The lube that was in the early vintage Ross box was a thick almost waxy substance. It was much like the Champion, Corn Head and some others in consistency. As the box evolved sealing capabilities and clearances were improved, the lube became Hypoid Gear Oil (GL5). Now a days in a more modern gear type Manual Steering box, you will probably find Hypoid Gear oil. The cork seal in the early Ross Box will let all the runny lubes out eventually. If the seal has been changed out to a neoprene it will help a lot. As long as you have a high weight EP lube in there you have done no harm. It ill work quite well as designed however with the right stuff in it.

    Here are a few links:
    https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis...X%20GREASE.pdf
    https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...ndle-grease-00
    https://torqueking.com/product/777/c...4-front-axles/

    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-15-2024 at 07:50 AM. Reason: Added source

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •