Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 27

Thread: New guy here

  1. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Farmerville,La.
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    I'd look it over very closely before you decide to rebuild. DOT-3 brake fluid goes out and tries to find water to absorb into the system and then lets it sit at low places and corrode things. (It is very "hygroscopic"). The master cylinder is usually the low place in the system.

    If there is any corrosion in the bore, you won't be able to get a good pedal.
    Would Dot (4) or (5) be better option with silicone or would the price be a concern?

  2. #12
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,482
    DOT-4 is a glycol based fluid like DOT-3 but higher temp and a little less hygroscopic. DOT-5 is a silicone, but not compatible with anything else.

    If you are cleaning out the system, DOT-5.1 is a really good choice for Jeeps that sit a lot. It is compatible with DOT-3, won't absorb water and is rated for temps far above what you will see in a Heep. It is precious $$$, but you are only going to do it once in a long while.

  3. #13
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Farmerville,La.
    Posts
    11
    Rebuilt master cylinder, tried to bleed lines, no go. Rebuilt all 4 wheel cylinders, Found all flexible hoses completely plugged. Ordered new set of hoses, and replaced all 4, not an easy job. Bled from furtherest to near. Now have brakes. Reminded me of why I don’t work on anyone’s else’s brakes but my own.

    Engine works fine, no leaks so far used Dot 3 fluid. No water leaks anywhere.

    Now working on cluster of wires, got lights working high low beam and running lights all ok. Horn next, fun bringing back to life after so many years. Speedometer only shows 11,000 miles and it works also. I think that is accurate because this Jeep will only do 45MPH, which is fine with me, I hardly get of the farm anyway.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,570
    The rubber brake hoses have brought even the most experienced mechanics to tears trying to figure out why they can't get the brakes to bleed. Great job on concurring the beast!

  5. #15
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,482

    Rubber Hoses

    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The rubber brake hoses have brought even the most experienced mechanics to tears !
    The only thing worse is that little flex hose from the steel fuel line to the fuel pump. It gets soft and rotten inside. Then you start the vehicle, the fuel in the pump primes the float bowl on the carburetor and off you go. AS the pump takes suction, the hose collapses internally and the engine dies of fuel starvation.

    Things sit a while, then the cycle repeats. You get about a half-mile down the road on each cycle. I learned that in 1966.

  6. #16
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    577
    There should be a thread on here called brakes. And it should remain empty with no comments allowed as a courtesy to those of us who have had a long and awful terrible relationship with our brakes.

  7. #17
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,558
    Aw come on... it's not over yet is it? All relationships involve sacrifice, commitment and submission. You haven't lived till you get to compare your 2000 era Anti-Lock brakes in a panic stop, against your 1940 designed "brakes". Quite a test, no comparison.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-24-2020 at 06:34 AM.

  8. #18
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Farmerville,La.
    Posts
    11
    Found out buying the other jeeps for parts working very well. Paid $400 for the both of them, got extras 1 set rear end diff. And front end also. I think the guy was just tired of mowing around it. Anyway i had a problem with the (Y) connector at front of the master cylinder and found one on the newer ‘53 that fit as mine was striped on one side. Got 6 lock out hubs in the deal, mine has none and am wondering if I should install a set on the ‘48 I’m getting going? It probably wont leave the farm tho. But would be nice to be able to unlock and tow if needed.

  9. #19
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Farmerville,La.
    Posts
    11
    Ok I’ve changed gear oil in both front and rear differentials, now for transmission and transfer case. This is 3 speed cj2a, when i drain the transfer case only got about 1 pint out. Does the tranny and transfer share the same fluid or are they separate because I’m having a hard time finding a drain plug on the transmission. Found a fill plug for both but the only drain plug I’m finding is straight thru skid plate hole And is a 3/8 square hole plug??? Book shows a drain on side of transmission??? Will need to reinvestigate this. I know about no EP in tranny fluid.

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    447
    Yes, I'm sure there are two places you have to drain. If It's like the one I'm working on oil can go from one to the other. I was looking back and trying to find where one of the experts here was explaining how all that works, but haven't been able to find it.
    Last edited by okiemark; 06-01-2020 at 10:26 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •