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Thread: 47 CJ2A Head replacement issues

  1. #1

    47 CJ2A Head replacement issues

    I purchased a 47 CJ2A last month. After driving I noticed it had moisture/Milky oil. I had a mechanic look at it and he stated the the PCV was removed and it needed it in order to vent the vapors. I installed new PCV Valve and new line . Changed the oil and filter. I ran the motor again and noticed the milky oil again. I was then advised the head gasket may be the issue. I removed the head and ordered new fel pro gasket. I had the head machine .004 and magnafluxed. Upon removing the head I discovered 3 over the head studs were replaced with Grade 8 1/2 by 20 by 3.5 bolts and not the standard 7/16. I ordered all new studs and installed the studs where they fit and replaced the grade 8 bolts. I had issues locating 1/2-20 head studs so I purchased new 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts. I reinstalled the head and torqued the head to specs. I fired the engine up and it had a little vapor coming from the exhaust but cleared up after it ran for 15 mins. The temp went to 180-190 then dropped back below 180 after the thermostat opened. No fluid in the oil. I shut the engine off and re torqued the head. I checked the fluids again. They all were good. I fired the engine back up and decided to drive it to the gas station . I made it about 1/2 a mile and noticed I had steam and oil spraying from somewhere in the engine bay. The engine stopped running. I was able to pull into a parking spot. I opened the hood and oil was everywhere. I have no idea where the oil is coming from. I tried to fire it back up and now the starter switch is not working, possibly covered in oil or has a short from the oil? The motor turns free when I manual turn the motor with a wrench. I am lost at this point. I may pay someone to redo the head, I am baffled. Any ideas?
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  2. #2
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Brad, it looks like you are performing some good work there. Is this a prior rebuild? The block deck looks clean as if it was decked. I would say check the block deck to be sure it is flat. If it was recently decked, I wouldn't expect a problem. There is one thing that can and does happen when bolts are used in place of the studs. The bolt length must be exact. Too little is a bad thing for strength. Too long and or the shoulder contacting the block, or debris in the hole can crack the block. Some times this can be repaired with an insert. I had two to fix on mine due to bolts on a prior rebuild. The little L head is fussy and I am not sure why but, suffice it to say keeping a head gasket in there just requires good flat surfaces and a universal clamp load. If a bolt bottoms, that wont happen and it can crack the block. Oil outside the engine and water is something that will require a good look. Clean it up as best you can and see if you can spot the oil leak. A pressure tester on the cooling system will identify the water leak right away.

    One more thing, what brand head gasket did you use? There was a lot of China stuff out there that did have problems. The China gaskets are unmarked. Everything else says Made in USA.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-10-2020 at 08:17 AM.

  3. #3
    I used the Felpro brand headgasket, Since posting I checked the studs again and torqued them again. I have small bubbles coming from the left rear corner of the head. I do have a heavy copper gasket order from one of the Willys sites. The gasket was about $50.00 and from what I have read is the best option. I learned the felpros are sub par . I think torquing the head again the leak stop. I ran the engine again last evening and the temp went to 190- then to 200 and the thermostat did not open. I need to check the water pump that may be bad at this point. Perhaps it is not pumping the fluid? It seems to be build pressure in the the radiator vs flowing? The motor deck was machined in 2002 when rebuilt, but it sat for a few years . This should not be issue, The deck was cleaned and prepped 4 times. I used acetone and clean shop tops, then dusted the top end with air compressor. I lined the walls with engine break in lube so I did not get a dry start. I may send the jeep to a shop and have them install this new copper head gasket. I am running out of free time . What is the cost for this repair being that all the machine work etc has been done?

  4. #4
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    The first thing I would replace is the thermostat or just take it out for now.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If you do take the thermostat out, you need to trim out the center of the thermostat. Then install the outer thermostat housing to create a restriction. This holds the coolant in the radiator to effectively cool it better then just letting the coolant free flow. The operating temp will be deminished, and will need longer to be ready to drive.

    A good copper gasket will seal any imperfections, but you will also need to check that the wet studs/bolts are properly sealed as well. FELPRO does make different grades of gaskets, and copper gaskets. I've had good luck with using FELPRO, but have been using the premium gaskets. Threads on the studs will wick coolant from the water jacket.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 05-11-2020 at 01:11 PM.

  6. #6
    UPDATE: I made new head studs on the late and sent them out for hardening. Order new water pump, Pil Lines, Radiator hoses, New radiator . New Presolite Dist as well. May as well do it right the first time. Lastly Morris 4x4 has a 3-5 day lag in processing orders. I ordered from multiple places and had the items in 2-3 days. Anyone have like issues?

  7. #7
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes I am having shipping issues as well. Two Day Air has been averaging 4 days. Everything seems to have a day or two added to it.

  8. #8
    I ordered from Midwest and kaisers with no issues and one other parts dealer . No issues , packages are shipped the day I ordered and arrive fast than expected. Morris states next day processing , that is further from the truth. After being on hold for more than 2 hrs I was told their warehouses are backed up 3-5 days. I wished I would have ordered my parts from one of the other companies. I am a week Behind on the project now . Frustrating to say the least . I will not order from them again. At any rate . With the delayed shipping I have found the need to remove other parts for blasting and painting . I am making the best of the situation.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    With advent of just in time materials, where we don't stock items on a shelf until we are within a day of assembling a vehicle, has caused a ton of delays. Even though we are deemed essential workers on government contracts, the off the shelf suppliers are not. I have half my workforce on idle time, just waiting for parts to show up. The shop is receiving a deep cleaning with all these idle hands.

    I purchased a floor board for our wagon project, and it showed up the next day from Kaiser Willys, a couple of weeks back. Being oversized, I didn't expect it for 3 days or better.

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