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Thread: Issue With Ammeter Wiring

  1. #11
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    Since this post I have installed a new battery in the jeep. I've been disconnecting the battery after I'm done with it just in case. With the new battery in, the ammeter still reads zero, and I've noticed that turning on the headlights moves the meter ever so slightly. I wasn't able to try the D-cell battery test that was suggested because getting behind that panel is a massive pain and I didn't think it was worth it. I think at this point, I'm just going to leave it and hope it all works.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    All sounds good. The ammeter moves from zero to positive when the Generator is charging and moves to negative if there is current draw but no "balancing" or higher charge from the generator. So normally when you draw current from the battery when the engine is off the meter reads the discharging battery and is telling you how much current "Amps" are being pulled from the battery. When the engine is running the Generator should be charging. The amp meter will read the "charging" current as positive amperage. If the engine is running and the ammeter reads 0, the battery is charged (assuming a good system). If the Amp gauge is reading negative when the engine is running and you turn the lights on, the system is not charging sufficiently. It should read slight negative amperage when the engine is off and you turn the lights on. It should not read negative amps when the engine is running with the lights on.

  3. #13
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    After driving it around a little bit, I actually figured some more stuff out. When the engine is running, if you pull the headlights the ammeter drops a noticeable amount. This should mean the ammeter is functioning properly, but that would also indicate that my charging system isn't working, even though my multimeter test said it was. I thought I had this sorted, but it seems I definitely did not lol.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    What happens when you hold the engine rpm's up? Does the ammeter move to "+" with the lights on and the motor revving?

  5. #15
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    It's normal for the ammeter to move a little when you turn on the lights as long as it stays in the plus side, you're alright.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Another thing you may or may not have noticed. When you crank the engine, until it fires, the ammeter will wobble as the points open and close. This is a good check if some day it won't start.

  7. #17
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    Not sure about the higher rpm or the cranking, will check at some point. okiemark, the problem is that it's in the negative.

  8. #18
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    With the engine running at idle, it is possible the original 6 volt system may not have the ability to provide enough current to charge or balance the load. When you hold the RPM's up to 1500 or so, that will provide the generator enough speed to produce some good current. If it does not move back to 0 or "+" amperage the system is not putting out sufficient current. Keep your volt meter across the battery. Record the voltage at idle with the lights on and the engine idling, and then at around 1700 rpm. Let us know what you get. It should be fairly easy from there once a little diagnostic is done.

  9. #19
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    With the lights on, increasing RPM does move the meter up some, but it is still negative. Didn't have a voltmeter with me this time, but last time I tested it seemed fine. I will certainly test it again next time I can.

  10. #20
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Negative amps won't do. Lets get that volt meter reading. It is possible a voltage regulator adjustment is required. Hopefully that's it. LarrBeard has posted some good information on this forum for adjusting the regulators. It could just need an adjustment. If the generator is not supplying enough current to the battery that could be a few things. It is possible the generator and or regulator needs a going through.

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