Page 7 of 25 FirstFirst ... 5678917 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 244

Thread: Virtual Willys MB

  1. #61
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    392
    Yeah but here's a possible solution. See, if you make the pieces durable, it could might be that a radio controlled car e-lectric motor would fit inside one of the spaces somewhere. I vote to keep options open, this thing might cross the finish line motorized with almost no fitment problems... I'm a buyer with or without a motor. Love the details man

  2. #62
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The drawing looks to be a 2A. The windshield is taller on the 2A, by about three inches compared to the MB. You are correct, the fuel cap was under the driver's seat instead of through the body. Also the rear panel on the MB was solid, with no tailgate.
    Thanks gmwillys, I'll keep those details in mind.

    Here's the two tone 1:6 scale frame next to the 1:10 and 1:16 To give you an idea of the size, this table has a diameter of 5 feet or foot I never know which one to use.

    045.jpg

    Here a couple of close up shots

    046.jpg 047.jpg

    And here is the first print out of the resin printer. The details are astounding.

    048.jpg 049.jpg

    But the post-processing is a pain.

    Enjoy the weekend!

  3. #63
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by 5JeepsAz View Post
    Yeah but here's a possible solution. See, if you make the pieces durable, it could might be that a radio controlled car e-lectric motor would fit inside one of the spaces somewhere. I vote to keep options open, this thing might cross the finish line motorized with almost no fitment problems... I'm a buyer with or without a motor. Love the details man
    Thanks 5JeepsAz, motorization is not in the plans for now. But the 1:6 scale would make it possible no doubt. Who knows!

  4. #64
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    1,560
    Man this project will keep you grinning! How cool, you just cranked out three different sizes.

  5. #65
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Man this project will keep you grinning! How cool, you just cranked out three different sizes.
    Thanks Bob, having lots of fun. I'm still experimenting with the resin printer. Tried my first print of the 1:16 scale and it is not so bad. Lost some parts that detached while printing and ended up in the resin container which I will have to strain. Others parts have missing portions. This is due to my lack of knowledge of that technology. I will need to add support or change the orientation.

    Out of 13 parts, I got 7 printed. So I'm batting for .538, not bad for a rookie.

    This is what it looks like out of the printer.

    050.jpg 051.jpg

    After cleaning them, they need to be UV cured. They are sitting under a UV light.

    Before curing they are very soft to the touch. Similar to cartilage

    052.jpg


    053.jpg

    Sunday I will print the missing parts and report back. I guess that Monday, I'll have to deal with that faulty spring.

  6. #66
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    426
    This is really cool. Thanks for sharing this with us.

  7. #67
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    392
    Assembly before cure? Cure before assembly? Are those screws real or printed? Are you going to cure the tires or leave them squishy? If you leave the seat cushions squishy, will they hold or deteriorate? You don't have to answer. I'll just sit here chattering and watch

  8. #68
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by okiemark View Post
    This is really cool. Thanks for sharing this with us.
    Thanks okiemark, I'm having a lot of fun sharing my project with all of you.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5JeepsAz View Post
    Assembly before cure? Cure before assembly? Are those screws real or printed? Are you going to cure the tires or leave them squishy? If you leave the seat cushions squishy, will they hold or deteriorate? You don't have to answer. I'll just sit here chattering and watch
    5JeepsAz, no worries, fire the questions as they come, it's my pleasure to share what I know with all of you as you all do with me.

    Curing is required to make the resin solid and non toxic, so it must be cured before assembling. There is no curing involved with my FDM printer.

    Side note: Long story short, the resin printer is going back. it stinks, really stinks, it irritates my eyes, the cleaning process creates a giant waste management problem. It requires a ton of paper towels and water that are both contaminated. Too much trouble for me.

    I'm back with my original printer which generates good prints without the hassle. Not as good on smaller scale like 1:16 but I'm willing to live with that


    The screws I use are real M2-6 for the 1:10 scale, and M3-10 for the 1:6. No screws for the 1:16 I used filament to align the parts and CA glue

    The tires will be printed using a softer filament. I have two options, I have a roll of PETG that is more flexible than usual PETG. I also bought a roll of TPE flexible filament for that exact purpose. It is very flexible like on this picture.

    054.jpg

    But apparently it's a one of the more difficult material to print with due to its elasticity. It is also a lot more expensive.

    I had not thought of using flexible material on the seat cushion so they are squishy. I like the idea, but the only color of flexible material I have is black, I'm not sure it can be painted and keep the squishy feeling without the paint flaking off. I like the idea, thanks for bringing this up, I will look into options I can find for squishy cushions.

    I received my army green filament, today I should print some tests and see how it looks.

    055.jpg. 056.jpg

  9. #69
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Posts
    124
    Spent the last 48 hours test print the army green filament.

    I was never able to print a complete part. The filament would jam inside the extruder every single time. No matter how much I fiddle with the different parameters, I cannot get it to print. This is what it always end up like.

    057.jpg

    Furthermore, the green is not looking good to me. It's not close to the olive drab look I'm hoping for. It is also too glossy.

    I have some parts on order to modify the printer so it may be able to print this filament, but in the end I won't be satisfied with the looks.

    Although I wanted to avoid painting it, I see no other alternatives.

    I got my paint shop ready

    058.jpg

    and some USA Olive Drab primer

    059.jpg

    Here we have half of this part painted to show the difference in green.

    060.jpg

    and the 1:16 white frame with one coat of primer.

    061.jpg

    You can see that painting highlights the defaults of 3d printing. It accentuates the printing lines as well as highlights all the fuzzy plastic hairs. Therefore it will require more prep work before painting. But I prefer this color. So unless I find some other filament with the correct color, the paint route I will take.

    So I'm returning the unopened two spools. No reason to spend twice as much if I'll end up painting it anyways
    Last edited by bluesblooded; 09-15-2020 at 10:04 AM.

  10. #70
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    392
    Well mystery solved. Our jeeps don't fit together because they printed wrong. And we are all replicating green slop paint jobs because shiny green is too shiny. Still the coolest build going. Carry on..

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •