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Thread: Virtual Willys MB

  1. #81
    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    Oh man this is really something to see. It just keeps growing!
    That's the fun of it, seeing it evolve rather quickly.

    Quote Originally Posted by okiemark View Post
    The nice thing to know is that once you get it right you can save it.
    Exactly! That is the nice thing about digital design. Once you have it right, you can do whatever you want with it. Having the proper tools (CNC, Plasma cutter, metal printer etc...), I could machine one that is twice the size of the real one without any more work on the design side.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5JeepsAz View Post
    To be fair it takes years to work out the bugs on a new vehicle design, so this is par for the course. We just have a front row seat at your work bench. might be we end up with little metal spring steel pins embedded between connectors to strengthen, not sure what your personal tolerance is for creating better tolerances via utilization of non printed parts. Yup. tape and pins and green slop! The exacto knife for scale is interesting... Some of these parts are going to be fragile, so tiny. Maybe print a clear case and put it on the top shelf under full protection!
    You are totally right, it takes years for engineers to bring a new design to life. I'm struggling to copy something that was designed so long ago, I can only imagine how complex modern car/mechanic design have evolve over the past 80 years.

    There are a few options to strengthen the parts. The easier one is to use more robust filament. ABS, Nylon and some filament engineered for strength already exists. These options will need to be studied. All of them have advantages and drawbacks.

    For instance ABS stinks when printed and the fumes are toxic.

    Nylon is finicky to print with, it's prone to capture humidity and when it does it prints awful.

    Engineered for strength filament is expensive for hobbyist.

    Not sure if the Nylon or engineered filament can be painted either. Lots to think about.

    On the bright side, newer and tougher PLA is getting on the market regularly. It's just a matter of testing them

    For now I will keep overbuilding and cheating when it does not interfere with original look.

    One other option that you suggested is to reinforce with steel. I know that some people insert magnets while printing. For instance, they will design a pocket inside the part. They will pause the print where the pocket is halfway done, insert the magnet and resume printing. Using this technique I could embed small metal rods/pins to strengthen the part.

    Options are available.

    When I say I'm struggling to copy this design, here's the most recent example, Having fixed the front shock and established that the core front axle was fitting, I decided to do the same right away for the rear axle.

    Then I noticed that my two axle where not align horizontally.

    073.jpg

    To get them to align I would need the core of the rear axle to be 1.6 times bigger than the front axle core. That would obviously be apparent when you looked at the two axles. I had two choices, first redo the frame so the front end is lower by 3mm. Second, change the rear springs radius so it is flatter, thus bringing it higher.

    I chose the second option.

    This is the original rear spring design. A series of circle with the smaller circle at 356mm and the larger one at 368mm

    074.jpg 075.jpg

    Now how do I get the smaller circle to move up about 3mm. I don't know. I'm sure a mathematician would've come up with the answer and it probably has something to do with PI and all that stuff I was not listening to in school.

    My way was a bit longer, I changed the values of the original circles until I got close. It did take a while because the final value of the smaller circle is now 612mm

    Now both 10mm axle cores aligns horizontally


    076.jpg

    As you can see from the picture, it is way flatter. This is one instance where I think I can get away with cheating. And is it really cheating? I don't even know the right dimensions of the spring, I'm working by eye. So most of this Jeep will never be to spec anyways.

    Since I need to reprint the spring for toughness, might as well add some features that will be required shortly, namely a way to attach the future axles. Now the U bolts are not an option for me. So I will install a screw from underneath. But I will have fake U-Bolts so it looks the part.

    077.jpg

    Ok thats enough for this morning.
    Last edited by bluesblooded; 09-19-2020 at 07:50 AM. Reason: missed a few words

  2. #82
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Dude this is great. So the drawing is not correct, because you have to modify your render of it to make the product work. Add materials considerations for strength and flexibility, functionality, whatever. Then the coolest thing I saw was a shadow Jeep in the original. Completed this thing will be so worth it. I'm worried about cost overruns long term, which you'll have to makeup by sales lol. Retirement eh...

  3. #83
    Thanks 5JeepsAz, I'm putting all the details I can to make it worthy of the Willys.

    Most hobbies are costly. This one ain't that bad.

    3D printing and building the Landy set me back around 350$ in parts and it is not Remote controlled. Had I wanted to make it RC, I would need to spit another 200$.

    But it was worth it. It is 1:8 scale and almost 22 inches long.

    081.jpg

    Took 7 pounds of filament (3 spools) and about two months to print. Three months to assemble because I was drawing every single parts in my CAD to learn the software and intricacies of Drawing for 3D printing.

    078.jpg

    These are two renderings generated by the software

    079.jpg 080.jpg

    It's been a tremendous learning experience and is the reason I can tackle this Willys MB project by myself.

    Speaking of the MB, here are the new parts being primed before assembly

    082.jpg

    While they're drying and the printer is spitting out the missing 1:6 scale parts, I'm trying to figure out how to design the rear axle so the wheels turn. I think I'm going to put a 10-15-4 bearing inside the brake drum, but need to figure out how I will assemble all the parts together. I need to plan a little bit ahead so I have a broader picture of the complete rear train assembly.
    Last edited by bluesblooded; 09-20-2020 at 01:38 PM.

  4. #84
    Made some nice progress yesterday.

    I figured out how I was going to build the rear train assembly to allow the wheels to spins.

    It's a few parts, but it should work. I will be able to insert a bearing. Here are two exploded view of the rear axle with the incomplete wheels

    083.JPG 084.JPG

    I thought you might like to know how I build the wheels.

    First I drawn the profile of the back side of the wheel like this. The original two part wheel of the MB is perfect for 3D printing. It will be a breeze mounting the tires on them

    085.JPG

    Here's the front portion of the wheel profile. (highlighted in blue)

    086.JPG

    Then I use a cool feature called "Revolve" What it does is revolve the profile along an axis. In the case of the wheels, I revolved them at a 360 degree to create the wheels. Here's a picture of the partial rotation to give you an idea how sweet this tool is.

    087.jpg

    Without the revolve tool, it would've been a lot more complex to create the wheels.

    Still a bit of finition work to do on the wheels and create the gear housing on the axle. This will take place in a couple of days, Then I should be able to print an test if it works.

  5. #85
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Looking great! The bearing idea for the wheels is classy. Your attention to detail is first class! The Rover turned out wonderful. Well worth what you have invested, and could easily get a return on your investment if you ever chose to make copies for sale.

  6. #86
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Looking great! The bearing idea for the wheels is classy. Your attention to detail is first class! The Rover turned out wonderful. Well worth what you have invested, and could easily get a return on your investment if you ever chose to make copies for sale.
    Thanks gmwillys, I believe all the fun is in the details. The more I can cram in there the happier I am.

    Here are all the parts of the 1:10 scale new chassis.

    088.jpg

    This is where we were with the first prototype. Had to reprint it because of a few minors adjustments. I also printed at the better quality.

    089.jpg

    Installed the screws on the shackle. and started installing the springs

    090.jpg 091.jpg

  7. #87
    I did not make the hole of the shock's washer big enough. Note taken to fix this in the model.

    092.jpg

    Here we have it, the frame and the suspension completed.

    093.jpg 094.jpg 095.jpg 096.jpg

    Very happy with the results so far.

  8. #88
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Looking good BB. Just think where technology will be in another 10 years.

  9. #89
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    This is just like stepping into an engineering meeting on the chassis!

  10. #90
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    This is just like stepping into an engineering meeting on the chassis!
    But with nobody arguing who has the better design....

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