Page 7 of 7 FirstFirst ... 567
Results 61 to 68 of 68

Thread: Newbie with a MB

  1. #61
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,418
    The good news is that it is pretty hard to go wrong picking out a battery.

    The basic choice is a Group 1 lead-acid battery - the original equipment battery. A typical battery is this one:

    https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/960195_0_0

    Auto Zone, O'Reily's, Rural King, NAPA - there are vendors all over the place. I've had a Group 1 lead-acid battery in the '48 since its rebirth and unless I do something stupid like leave a light on, it has never unexpectedly run down or failed to crank the engine - even in really cold weather. These typically have a 1-year warranty, but you can find 3-year or so if you're willing to shell out the bucks.

    But, if you want to go to the next level, an Aggregate Glass Mat (AGM) battery is the next step.

    https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...cca/437833_0_0

    It is a different form factor, so securing it in place is a bit of a challenge, but it gives more cranking amps, something that might be an advantage if you have either a new, tight engine or a worn one that needs to spin for a while to get it going. They're more expensive that the Group 1 batteries, but they typically are warrantied for 3-years.

    As the old guy says; "You pays your money and you takes your choice".

    Probably more important that battery choice is paying attention to the starting and charging system on a 6-volt Jeep. When you start out with only 6-volts, every tenth of a volt is previous.

    Make sure terminals and connections are clean and tight. Don't scrimp on battery or starter cables; 12-volt #4 AWG parts store cables won't get the job done. KWAS uses #1 AWG for their cables and they are a minimum size.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/battery...66-jeep-willys

    If you can find them, braided welding cables make an even better solution, but you usually have to get a good auto electrical shop to crimp on the terminals.

    We have seen a number of folks having starting issues where it turns out the actual starter switch on the push-in starters is the issue. They get old, dirty and pitted, so don’t overlook that switch. Starter bearings, bushings and brushes also slow down starters and increase current draw.

    I know – more than you asked for, but we’re kind of like that insurance guy on TV; We’ve seen just about everything – but there is always something new coming.

  2. #62
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Fort Benning, Georgia
    Posts
    27
    Lads-

    Finally got a 12v system put in the MB; runs like a top & no issues with it so far

    Here's the question I have for everyone: When I drive the Jeep for more than a mile or so, when I take it out of gear, it doesn't "coast" like it normally should - emergency brake is completely disengaged, my mechanics at the Auto Skills Center here on Benning checked the wheels a few months ago & didn't see anything wrong -

    I was thinking maybe look at brakes first? Bleed brake lines & replace fluid? I read something about replacing the piston cups as well

    Or maybe simply remove & repack the wheel bearings

    Any advice as always is much appreciated!

  3. #63
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    E OK
    Posts
    444
    Couldn’t hurt to check wheel bearings. I caught all kinds of problems on mine when I was changing tires. I could feel and hear things weren’t right turning the wheels by hand.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  4. #64
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    E OK
    Posts
    444
    You could have something in the brakes not completely releasing. I went through that on my F150 a year or so ago. The parking brake would not fully disengage because of corrosion. I would get a mile or so down the road before I would feel signs something wasnít right. Just far enough for the shoes and drum to heat up and get draggy. At itís worst it almost felt like the rear end was hopping.
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 02-28-2023 at 12:43 PM.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  5. #65
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,289
    Lewis when you notice this condition, pull over and check a few things. Can you push it? If you cannot, see if any of the brakes are getting hot. If one or more brakes are hot it could be a few things. Shift the transfer case to neutral and see if you can push it. If it pushes with the transfer case in neutral, there could be an internal issue.

    If you feel it isn't coasting and you pull it over, but can easily push it, Its probably going to take you getting used to the "drag" a vintage four wheel drive vehicle has when rolling at speed. Enjoy it!

  6. #66
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,389
    Lewis,

    You have an interesting issue going on. I would start out with Bmorgil's suggestions first, because they are a solid place to start.
    1) Brakes dragging?
    A) Rubber brake hoses at the wheel or at the rear end collapsing?
    * Are the rubber hoses pliable feeling?
    # If brake hoses are stiff or show age, then the inside of the hose has most likely pinching off the return flow of brake fluid back to the reservoir, and will need replacing.
    B) Brakes heating up on one brake drum/hub more than the other after driving?
    * Brake eccentric adjuster washer has slipped enough to where brake shoe is riding on the brake drum even when not applied?
    # Check wheel temps with a cheap inferred temp gun to see which set of brakes are the cause.
    2) Tough to push in neutral?
    A) Take a quick look/tape measure the front end alignment.
    * Slight toe in situation can cause rolling resistance, but may not be as noticeable at the steering wheel. (Not very probable)
    B) Front or rear differential axle bearing failure?
    * Check each axle bearing, (each wheel) for any signs of being tight or bearing failure?
    # Grease the axle bearings and recheck. Replace as needed.
    C) Transmission or Transfer case resistance?
    * Check for excessive heat externally by temp gun after drive?
    # If bearing(s) are dragging, replace as needed.

    This is just a preliminary group of possibilities to check to see what may be causing your problem.

  7. #67
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Fort Benning, Georgia
    Posts
    27
    Thanks for the info lads - spoke w/ mechanics at the Auto Skills Center & gonna try replacing the brake hoses first

    Will keep you updated

  8. #68
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    3,289
    This will be interesting Lewis. For sure keep us in the loop!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •