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Thread: 1946 CJ-2A Slightly Above Stock

  1. #121
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    Doc Dana (BMorgil) won't lead you astray --- he's a lot more trustworthy than he looks.
    Hahahahahahah!!!!! This is why we love LarrBeard! He will wait a long time to get you back. Nice Larry! ya gotta love a great shot!

    I don't think you can get into much trouble here, at least not something that cant be fixed. The actual trans work has a lot of support out there. Follow the Rick Stivers guide (watching out for the one mistake) and you will do great. The individual bearings can be challenging but there are three "tricks" to help you there. New caged style bearings, the sticky grease and a stick method and finally the one I use, a simple rubber band. Google up the videos (there are several) and print out Rick's guide and read it as you go. The service manual will walk you right through the transmission removal. I like to pull the transfer case and transmission as a unit. Support the back of the engine and disconnect a few things, and it comes out fairly well. Going back in is a mater of the alignment tool that came with your clutch and a good jack that rolls easily and holds everything solid.

    As my good friend Larry said, we will help you if we can. It can be hard communicating the how to when all we can do is write each other, but we are certainly up for the try.

  2. #122
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Here you go Joe, this is what I started with on mine and a picture of the rubber band trick bmorgil was talking about from the “Rick Stivers YouTube Videos”

    58AE52DF-AC39-4DFC-A365-4B8062689656.jpg7FE0CE9B-11F9-45A7-BB22-C930FE4D3820.jpg

  3. #123
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I didn't rebuild my own transmission on the '48 truck (it is basically a three-on-the-tree version of the same transmission) and I regret not doing it.

    After three passes through it, it still has a hitch going from first to second (Doc Dana has diagnosed it as a synchro problem) but I've chosen to live with it vs. pulling it and doing it a fourth time.

    If you do it yourself, it will get done right.

  4. #124
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    Alright, so I started the removed today and I have everything disconnected. There is one thing that I cannot find anywhere. It appears to be a rubber hose that runs out of the transfer case. As you can see from the pics I have some serious leaking problems. I have it supported by a jack as y'all suggested just gonna let the wife help tomorrow so I have an extra set of hands. I did get to that top driver's side bolt alot easier than I expected. 20220129_123832.jpg20220129_123828.jpg20220129_123822.jpg20220129_123818.jpg20220129_123811.jpg

  5. #125
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The rubber hose is the speedometer cable. If you haven't already, pull the two bolts in the frame for the clutch pivot. There are spring loaded cups that apply pressure to the pivot ball mounts on the frame and on the transmission.

  6. #126
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    GM, gotcha that makes sense. I just hadn't screwed it off far enough, but I got it. Yeah I had to take that clutch arm off all the way in order to get the transmission out. I did not take the the transfer case shifters off so I had to do some serious maneuvering. Luckily I had the wife under the helping me get it out. Y'all can see it is pretty nasty cause that transfer case is doing some serious leaking. I am gonna do the fix myself and the probably have someone put it back in for me. 20220130_191039.jpg20220130_191031.jpg20220130_191022.jpg20220130_191012.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by JoeyD; 01-31-2022 at 12:21 AM.

  7. #127
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Looking good Joey your on your way now. You don't want to try to put it back in? You seem to be doing fine with it.

  8. #128
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    Bmorgil, I cannot emphasis enough the pain it was laying under that thing with my wife and maneuvering it out. Granted, I am sure it is much easier with ALL of the shifter levers unattached but that thing is not light. Perhaps I will change my mind once I get it put back together...lol We will see what happens, love her to death but I need a little more muscle under there next time.

  9. #129
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Joey, rent or buy a jack that rolls. I take the unit out assembled to the transfer case and re-install it the same way. As long as you have a concrete slab to roll the jack on it should take a lot of the muscle out of it. You want to rent a floor jack with a transmission adapter on it or, get a transmission jack. You fasten the clutch assembly to the flywheel with an alignment tool in place to simulate the transmission input. Then you fasten the transfer case transmission and cross member assembly to the jack. Raise it all to the right height and slide it in. Get the vehicle in the air securely on jack stands, high enough to be able to roll the jack with the assembly in place under the vehicle. keep the shift levers off until the unit is in place and you start to raise it. Then install the transfer case shift levers and finish raising it to position and push it into the clutch assembly. Once you have it secured and in, install the cover on the transmission. Refer to your shop manual for the process to install the clutch with the alignment tool.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb...ack-61232.html

  10. #130
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    I have one of those harbor freight jacks. It works okay. The transmission will not clear the frame when on the jack. I have 31” tires and the front end is on jack stands.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

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