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Thread: 1946 CJ-2A Slightly Above Stock

  1. #111
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    Sorry y'all, I have been out traveling for the holidays and am just now getting back home. I will get a few pictures this afternoon and put them up here. I think y'all are on the right track here after talking to my stepdad and his mechanic a little bit. I just don't know how comfortable I feel about taking that box off and fixing it myself. I have seen and been quoted anywhere from $500-$1200 to rebuild the box. I would hate to do the whole thing if it is just the synchronizer plates or the spring, but maybe that is just the better option going forward anyhow.

  2. #112
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The synchro isn't coming out to be repaired without completely disassembling the transmission. If it has a lot of miles on it, I think it would be wise to just get it rebuilt Joey.

  3. #113
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    Borgia I think you are probably right. I am doing some more inspection now and it appears the springs are either broken or past their use. The synchronizer just keeps pushing the plates out and they won't allow the assembly to come out of gear. Here are a few pics, not sure they are that clear but you can see that I removed one of the plates with just a pair of pliers.20220104_165139.jpg20220104_165146.jpg20220104_165202.jpg

  4. #114
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Uhhh....

    I think you got all of the good out of that box.

  5. #115
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    I would guess the bearings are shot with as much corrosion as I see in those pictures. My transfer case was in the same condition as the transmission.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  6. #116
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    Oh man...so you are both saying I should probably just cut the losses here and do a complete overhaul or drop in a new one altogether. I did find while I was in there that at least one plate was broken. That is keeping them from staying in place when shifting out of 2nd. I did move it out by hand with some magic fingers, so I am in neutral now. Thanks for the advice y'all. I guess I know what the next move is going to be.

  7. #117
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The picture of the shifter boot tells a story. When that boot fails water runs right into the transmission. Jeff is pointing out the signs of water corrosion inside the box. You really don't know what it will take until you tear it down and see what is usable and what is not. Usually the water lays in the bottom of the box and destroys the lower bearings and their surfaces on the shafts and gears. In a worst case scenario you could end up replacing everything. The worst thing I have seen people do is put new bearings on pitted and corroded mating parts. I have seen many people replace the syncrho because it is jumping out of gear or not shifting , only to find the mating gear teeth are worn to badly to keep it in gear. The good news is all the parts are available.

    Too bad your not close by Joey, about 30 minutes with that box is all it takes to disassemble and see how bad it is. You may want to try this place. I have read others recommending him. I do not have any experience with Herm but, he certainly shows up in the forums. Just remember there are no extra parts in his price. As he goes through the rebuild he will let you know how many extra parts you will need. The parts get expensive quickly.

    http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/t-90-rebuild-kit-90
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bmorgil; 01-05-2022 at 09:14 AM.

  8. #118
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    Alright then...I am starting to decide why not just go for it and do the tear-down myself and see what I got. My real worry is actually getting the box and case off without messing something up. I believe I can do the overhaul, just a matter of getting it back on without causing more problems. I will keep y'all posted. That kit from herm looks like it just adds the plates and springs where the one from Kaiser doesn't include them. I would still just retain my old synchronizer assembly I believe and rebuild it.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/categor...0-transmission
    Last edited by bmorgil; 01-05-2022 at 04:53 PM.

  9. #119
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    When it comes to that synchro, I would replace it as an assembly complete. You don't know how worn the cones are on the inside and that is where they wear. For the price the synchro assembly new is a good deal.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/transmi...0-transmission

    Be sure to read this post from the tech section this forum. There is a mistake in the way the tear down information is out there. It is important to remove the idler shaft correctly. The Rick Stivers guide is a great resource. That one mistake will cause you a lot of headaches however. The rest of the guide is great. You can do some damage if you follow the identified mistake procedure.

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...-Stivers-Guide
    Last edited by bmorgil; 01-05-2022 at 04:54 PM.

  10. #120
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    OK.

    Take a deep breath.

    You can do this. There are a lot of people around to help you and to point you in the right direction. Take a lot of pictures. Ask questions. Don't hit things with anything bigger that a 2-pound hammer unless you know that's what you need.

    Doc Dana (BMorgil) won't lead you astray --- he's a lot more trustworthy than he looks.

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