You got it! On a lot of original tubs, there tends to be a hole pounded into the side of the tunnel to where a pry bar was jammed in to "persuade" the lever into full travel to the (In) position. Most of the holes would make you think that the hole was created with a pick axe.
Last edited by gmwillys; 03-05-2021 at 03:27 AM.
"Most of the holes would make you think that the hole was created with a pick axe."
Or Ira's BFH
I miss him. Glad we have his thread
bmorgil, in low there aren't any issues with power. Of course with that factory steering it isn't much fun to turn starting out. I do not have a hole per se, but the rubber but is long since gone. So I have a new one of those on order. As far as a stuck brake is concerned, I really need to get those rear hubs off and do some inspecting. I also seem to have some fluid coming out of the passenger rear drum backing. So I need to get in there.
I read through most of Ira's post and I have to say that I wish I could have been here when he was around.
["I read through most of Ira's post and I have to say that I wish I could have been here when he was around.[/QUOTE]
Miss Amy is working up an Ira Tribute, wait for it ...
The "The Darned Thing is Out..." thread is getting several hundred hits a day even now.
In the discussion on the pick axe hole punched in the floor board, here is an example of the barbaric modification on our Heep.
Ohhh gm I think I recognize that hole! The pin that retains the shifters will hit the tunnel right there when you try to remove it, if you are removing the shift levers without dropping the transfer case down a little. I actually contemplated putting a hole there on purpose with a plug, just to make it easier to pull the levers. I did see a few older 2's and 3's with a hole right there when I was looking for one. I wondered about that hole and then mine, like TJ's, stated dripping. I went to pull the levers and I discovered why the holes were right there. The pin comes out a little and bang hits the tunnel right there. All you have to do is drop the cross member a fuzz and it comes out. The hole however would be much faster!
There was a multi purpose remnant of a piece of round stock laying on the floor for years. If the detents rust up, and the shafts get globed up with crud, the bar goes in to "assist" the changing of the selectors. They are clean now, and work very well, but once upon a time in history, they must have not moved so easily. The pin clearance is another possibility I didn't really think about. I've gotten so used to pulling the body off on other projects that needed transfer case help. There is just enough room to slide the shifters through the floor when raising the body.
Makes Perfect sense now, I had everything in and bolted up and went to put put the levers in and Son-of-Beach the pin wouldn't go in...............I had to un-bolt the cross member and drop it down about like you said Bob a "fuzz" and the pin went in, on the other hand you can get the levers out without dropping the cross member bc the pin comes out far enough to get both levers out but the pin won't come out, the Ole boys in Toledo back 60-65 years ago must of laid awake at night thinking how they could aggravate the 21st century back yard mechanics/wannabesOriginally Posted by bmorgil
Wanna hear something about that GM, I went to loosen up the set screw to pull the pin out so I could get the levers out when I dropped everything to the floor and the set screw was twisted off in the hole, that's when I got out the bucket and was beside myself thinking I was going to have to raise the body up enough to clear the levers. Well after a couple Winston's and 2-3 Heinekens I got the sawzall out and made really short shift levers and said piss on it I will fix them when I getter all out on the floor.
Needless to say when you go to glue them back together you have to braze them bc they are cast, got it back together finally.
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