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Thread: Jeepster She Runs

  1. #1

    Jeepster She Runs

    After rebuilding the electrical parts to the distributor the other day and working on getting compression (several weeks), yesterday my tests showed good compression and strong spark for this early 1949 Willys Jeepster with the L head 134. The fuel tank is still out (needs sealing remember this Jeepster has been sitting in a shop for 40 years) so today I trickled a small amount of fuel into the carburetor and turned her over. She started right up and ran for about 3 to 4 seconds. I assume that was due to using up the little fuel that was in the carburetor. All the gauges work based on what little I can tell and all looks as it should, the oil level is up and looks clean. My question is do any of you engine experts have any advice for starting an engine that has been sitting for such a long time. Thanks.

    IMG_2123.jpg

  2. #2
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Start-up Hints

    [QUOTE=dgoodenow;15929] My question is do any of you engine experts have any advice for starting an engine that has been sitting for such a long time. Thanks."

    Well, since it runs, you have done 90% of the recommended things, or gotten past the initial pre-start checklist. Since it starts and runs, you might want to rig an auxiliary fuel tank, maybe a gallon or so, to let it run long enough to get warm. Just make sure the auxiliary tank is secure. Once an engine starts and the celebration begins, spilling a gallon or so of gas under the vehicle adds a certain urgency to the event.

    The main thing is to change the oil and filter before you run it very much. That old oil is dirty and the filter may have "engine cooties" living in it. Do an oil change, run it for about 8-hours total, then drain and fill it again. That new oil you put in only 8-hours ago will probably come out looking like a 3,000+ mile oil change.

    The Jeep books suggest that a straight 30-weight oil is the preferred oil, and since you have not had the engine apart, I would suggest straight 30-weight. New chemistry oils are slicker than old oils and old seals may not hold them in place. Don't rush out and go with a synthetic of some sort. Once you run the engine enough to make sure that things don't leak, Valvoline VR-1 10W30 is a good choice, but I would not recommend it if you see leaky main seals.

    I think you have already done a fresh coolant fill on that engine and radiator, so you should be good to go there.

    It looks like it's waking up nicely.

    Thanks for sharing with us. Keep us informed!

  3. #3
    I followed your advice and she started up and ran for a minute or so and than I noticed a fuel pump leak. I shut her down to investigate and it looks like the fuel pump is leaking from the breather ports. It's now off and I ordered a new one. The fuel pump is the AC 9306 dual action with the glass bulb. While the fuel pump is off I think I will replace the oil filter hoses, they look pretty bad and the inlet hose it easier to replace with the fuel pump off. Thanks again for your help.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Oil Filter Hoses

    Quote Originally Posted by dgoodenow View Post
    I think I will replace the oil filter hoses, they look pretty bad and the inlet hose it easier to replace with the fuel pump off.
    When you get the new hoses, take a long hard look at the fittings on the hose that dumps into the timing gear cover. We have had two instances here on the Forum where poorly crimped fittings ended up leaking - one case was a catastrophic failure that gave things an oil bath.

    In both cases the guys went to a local hose supplier and had him make hoses for them. It was a a bit more expensive, but a lot of peace of mind.

    That's the way it goes - one thing at a time...

  5. #5
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Right on Larry, do not buy the hose if it is not custom made for you, or clearly made in U.S.A..

  6. #6
    The new fuel pump came today and I install it. It leaks from the small air hole on the left side under the glass fuel bowl. I contacted the provider and he said my oil system is clogged. What does that mean and is it possible? Thanks.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Clogged Oil System Makes Fuel Pump Dribble....

    Quote Originally Posted by dgoodenow View Post
    The new fuel pump came today and I install it. It leaks from the small air hole on the left side under the glass fuel bowl. I contacted the provider and he said my oil system is clogged. What does that mean and is it possible? Thanks.
    Ok Guys - somebody else chime in on this. I don't know everything about fuel pumps, but there is an alarm going off in the back of my head saying "BS ...BS...BS...BS"

    I know a split diaphragm will dump fuel out of the overflow chute to keep from flooding the crankcase and diluting lube oil with gas - but a clogged oil system causing a leak????

  8. #8
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    What??? Larry can smell BS a mile a way. Good call Larry, Just when I thought I was old enough to hear them all.

    Totally agree it is leaking past the diaphragm. The exact reason for the "weep" hole. To let you know the diaphragm is failing. A failed diaphragm can indeed fill the crankcase with fuel.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    That is a new diagnosis of crap. Bmorgil is right on with his thought process.

  10. #10
    I agree. After the second contact with the provider he seemed to soften. His reason made no sense to me but I wanted the experts to weigh in. The provider have made provisions for me to return the pump. All that's lost is another week waiting. Thanks guys for your confirmation of the problem.

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