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Thread: Jeepster She Runs

  1. #11
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    So many times I heard something, checked with the forum, went back to the source and got the 'ok, we better do it right' answer. Glad you got it corrected!

  2. #12
    This forum has always been helpful. I am so glad that it is still around for Willy's query.

  3. #13
    Well the fuel pump was back ordered and took a couple of week to get here. It arrived today and I installed it a fired her up. She ran pretty good, smoked some from both the exhaust and engine compartment, but that soon stopped. There was a rattling sound at first, like a bearing or bushing was unhappy, but that stopped all of a sudden after a few minutes. I ran her for about 30 minutes and it ran up to temperature, a little higher than I wanted, but it was stable at about 200 degrees or so. It is sensitive to choke and wants the choke out some to run at its best. I think the carburetor is still not right. Also, I hear a light tappet noise, not sure which cylinder but it is pretty light, so hopefully it will calm down after more run time. Other than that I was pretty happy that after 40 years it would run that well at first start-up. Any suggestion for future run time would be much appreciated. Thanks.

  4. #14
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Good news indeed dg! A few things can cause a rattling sound when a motor has been setting for 40 years. The most common being rust and build up in the combustion chamber. It is good that it "went away". If it always seems to do it when its cold but goes away when it warms up, a little piston slap would be my guess. Cylinders and rings getting worn.

    It will run a little hotter when it is sitting still. A good flow of air would help cool it down. See what happens if you run a large fan in front of it while you have it running. 200 is a little hot. I would expect 180 if it has an accurate 160 thermostat. You may want to give the radiator another good flush and use the "engine running" technique. A few ways to do that but removing the radiator cap and opening the petcock valve, and running a garden hose in the radiator with the engine running works well. The idea being, if there was a lot of rust and corrosion built up inside the motor, it would be good to get it out. You may want to take a look at the thermostat to be sure of two things. That crud didn't loosen up and get stuck in it and also to check it to be sure it really does start to open at 145 deg and is fully open at 160 deg, the way a classic 160 deg thermostat should operate. Use the LarrBeard boil it in moms kitchen pan and thermometer technique. You might just find why it's running warmer than it should. I also wouldn't trust the gauge till you verify it.

    Sensitive to choke, most importantly it seems to like it, is telling you its lean. A reason why it might be running hot for sure. I think running it for a while might clean out the carb. If not, that idle circuit might have picked up a piece of crud or, there is a vacuum leak.

    You should pull the side cover and check the tappet clearance on all of them for sure. Now that you have her running it wont take you long to get her to purr.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 04-10-2021 at 06:34 PM.

  5. #15
    I started her up again this morning and I can now run it at ideal, and it accelerates nicely, but sometimes after acceleration it wants to stop. Getting better, but not there yet. Also, I tried to shift it in gear with the engine running and it would not go. Stopped the engine put it in gear and with the ignition switch off pushed the foot starter with the clutch in, the car moved. The clutch was stuck. After some on-line research I tried to run the engine at high rpm and pushed the clutch in and out a few times, sometimes before acceleration and sometimes during. That did it, the clutch is now free. I think I lucked out on that one. It still wants to heat up and the water pump leaks when it runs, stops afterwards. It looks like the front seal is leaking. Thanks for the input.

  6. #16
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Sitting 40-Years

    Quote Originally Posted by dgoodenow View Post
    It still wants to heat up and the water pump leaks when it runs, stops afterwards. It looks like the front seal is leaking.
    After sitting 40-years, I suspect you are going to find a lot of seals that leak. The '48 truck sat 35-years and we just replaced every seal we saw. And - even so, I've had to replace a couple that were not what they were supposed to be.

    If you have a leaky water pump - just get a rebuilt or new one. Overhauling a water pump just isn't worth the work you are going to put into it. We've found - the hard way - that even though something might be able to be fixed - sometimes it just is better to spend the time and money doing something really important.

    The thermostat is probably junk after sitting that long. It always worried me when the head temperature heated up towards 200 degrees before the thermostat opened and cooled things down. The new Milodon 16400 thermostat has totally changed how the truck heats up - it just eases up to 160 and stays there.
    Last edited by LarrBeard; 04-11-2021 at 06:37 PM.

  7. #17
    The water pump started to leak more and it still runs hot, so I bit the bullet and ordered a new water pump and thermostat yesterday. I removed both today and the thermostat is very rusted, I'm sure it is the cause of the problem. The water pump looked ok but if it leaks the seal must be bad. I hope the parts come soon. Also, do you guys think a fuel additive to the tank would help with the idle coughing problem? Thanks.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgoodenow View Post
    The water pump started to leak more and it still runs hot, so I bit the bullet and ordered a new water pump and thermostat yesterday. I removed both today and the thermostat is very rusted, I'm sure it is the cause of the problem. The water pump looked ok but if it leaks the seal must be bad. I hope the parts come soon. Also, do you guys think a fuel additive to the tank would help with the idle coughing problem? Thanks.
    Sounds like you're going to discover more things to fix. I would like to know too if fuel additives could help these old machines.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The best thing you can do for these old rigs would be to drain out all old fuel and keep it full of fresh fuel. The fuel needs to be a non-oxygenated fuel, in other words no alcohol in it. Ethanol will deteriorate many of the components in the old vintage fuel systems. You want to find a source for recreational fuel or, non-oxygenated.

    I am not a fan of fuel additives. Good fuel is full of additives and seldom needs more. Alcohol can be used to remove water from fuel. If you use a "Dry Gas" additive make sure you run it all out. StayBil is effective for storage of fuel for over the winter. I have always felt it is much better to run the fuel out of the carburetor and tank if you can. Fuel sitting for a few months in a carburetor bowl almost always eventually leads to issues in the carb.

    So in my opinion leave the additives on the shelf unless you suspect water in the fuel or long term storage, then be sure to run it all out.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 04-14-2021 at 06:13 AM.

  10. #20
    The water pump and thermostat came yesterday and I installed them this morning. Started it up and it runs nice and cool. Ran it for about 1 hour and runs better and better as time goes on. There is still a cough at idle but I notice that the timing light fade and the cough occur at the same time. I think I still have an electrical problem rather than a fuel problem. I have 6 volts at the points and the ground side of the points show connectivity to ground, could the point gape be too wide? Thanks.

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