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Thread: Cajun's '59 CJ5 Resto

  1. #141
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    in my last shop I had an older model IR 80 gallon industrial compressor that had a rather large motor and three cylinder compressor. It kept up with all the air tools and painting that was done. I had it plumbed into the shop with black iron pipe with air regulators and moisture traps at each outlet. On my shop that I'm in the process of building, I already have the PEX lines with all the fittings to do the same. My current compressor is a used 60 gallon Campbell Hausfeld three cylinder 3/4 HP. It does fairly well, but I do miss not having the 20 extra gallon capacity. As a side note, I use an electric corded variable speed 3/8" drill, (usually a DeWalt, because I've worn out a few stripping paint) to run the nylon brushes.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 08-30-2022 at 02:01 AM.

  2. #142
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    I've currently got a 30 gallon Kobalt that I've had for about 7yrs. It works ok for small jobs but I need something bigger for the new shop. I'm also looking for another tank to increase volume. I've got a Craftsman variable speed drill that I can't seem to wear out. It should work fine with the HF brushes.

  3. #143
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    The bad thing about using PEX for compressed air is sags in the runs create water traps where they are not wanted. I used to work for a guy who had PVC for his compressor lines and it had the same problem. He had built in traps below the hose couplings with a ball valves to drain water out of the line. We had to run water separators on the hoses to keep from spraying water that was being pushed out of the horizontal runs. He was very particular about connecting the hose he used for painting. The other building had copper and it was much better. I could sandblast down there without it spitting water. Both buildings had separators on the compressor.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  4. #144
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I have copper lines on mine running around the shop and barn. I have always fought water in the tank and lines. Its so humid around here and, the temperature fluctuations just build up a ton. I either put up with it or, I have to put a water separator at the hook up. I have a few drop legs where I periodically drain water. If you don't keep your air tools lubricated, water will do the job on them! Of course it just ruins a paint job. I bet I drain a quart of water out of my tank every year.

  5. #145
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    Well, I feel like I'm making some progress this month. Got the axels back on the chassis and she's setting on her tires. Still tons of things to do but at least I can look at something that shows progress. I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my Ross steering box. I ordered the overhaul kit from KW and the problem I've run into, and it seems to be a common issue, is that the bushings that support the sector shaft are too loose in the bore. I can push each in by hand. They need to be reamed to 15/16" but they spin in the bore. I follow Brian (Metalshaper) on Youtube and he was talking about this issue. Does anyone have a solution to this issue? NOS parts? Another vendor? On another note, I had ordered a new steering shaft/worm gear from KW but they've been back-ordered since April. My old shaft had some flat spots worn on the worm gear and I had a local machinist that was able repair the old shaft/worm gear for half the price of the new unit. I'll put that in the win bracket!
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  6. #146
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I would try a different vendor. They definitely need to fit tight. It is the press fit collapsing the bushings, that makes them need to be reamed in the first place. I have also read about the same issue. I read it is a vendor thing, and some found success sending them back. I am not sure where the bushings are sourced. You may just want to order the bushings from a bushing supplier. You could also have that local machinist make something up. I would give him the whole thing and have him give it back with the bushings installed and reamed fitted to the shaft he repaired for you. That would be a perfect scenario!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 09-26-2022 at 04:16 PM.

  7. #147
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    Bmorgil, the idea of sending it to my machinist was an idea that I’d also considered. I’m gonna hit a few parts houses this week and see if I can get lucky first.

  8. #148
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    Found a couple of gems this weekend while visiting my parents in Montana. Found the original owners manual! Never knew that it still existed. It's not in the best condition but its all there and legible. Also found a picture of the Jeep from a 1960 deer hunt in Colorado. My goal is to return it to this original version, with my mom's name painted on the hood. Now for my question of the day. I got my steering box back from the machinist. The bushings are installed, reamed and the sector shaft fits perfectly. I replaced the bearings on the screw gear and when I went to install the shaft into the steering box, the bearing race will not fit thru the bore. I still have the old races and they will pass through with a little encouragement but the new races will not fit. Any suggestions on what to do? I tried heating the steering box bore with a torch and the race went partially through but still won't fit.
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  9. #149
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Cajun98 those pictures are priceless!!!
    Try putting the race in the freezer for a while, it may shrink them down enough to squeeze them in.

  10. #150
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Man you did find some Gems! Great shot of the hunt. It sure looks cold.

    That steering box of yours intends to be a tough one. The bearings should go in fairly easy. A little persuasion is OK but, you certainly shouldn't have to heat the box. Do you have a good micrometer or dial caliper? Check the old race and the new one for size. You have to make sure you are going straight in with the race. If you get it a little cocked it will jam up. Also if the steering shaft/worm gear isn't perfectly straight it will not go together. If the shaft/worm gear are slightly off center or bent, it will not align correctly. If everything is clean in the bore and its not scored up, it sounds like the wrong bearing.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-27-2022 at 11:38 AM.

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