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Thread: My horn is still great... but my carburetor isn't!

  1. #31
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Mark how far you go with it really depends on what you want out of it, how long you wan it to last, and how much you want to spend, in no particular order. If you are going to keep it and you want it to run like new rebuild it completely "by the book". If you just want to get it going, or what ever your thoughts are you don't want to do a full rebuild, do what you want man its yours! I have gotten many motors running anyway I could, and the best way I could. Every time it was with a purpose in mind.

    I can tell you that what we taught in the O.E. Machine Shop classes was the best way for many reasons. No cutting corners or cost for the purpose at hand. Warranty or winning was at the forefront of all decisions.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-13-2021 at 06:08 PM.

  2. #32
    Member Mark J's Avatar
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    Thank you!
    I'm going to stick with exhaust valves for now. I'm willing to remove the head again later if need be.
    For the future, I'd actually just like to have the entire engine rebuilt professionally, or just buy a rebuilt block and put it in myself, which I have done a few times in the past.
    I will order new parts like exhaust manifold studs and other fasteners that might break in the block, or head. I certainly don't want to deal with drilling out a broken stud or bolt.
    I should probably order new head bolts as well. I do have a torque wrench when I put it all back together.

  3. #33
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Mark here is a link to a fellow on the CJ2 page. He did a good job here. This is a L head but your exhaust will be the same.

    https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/e...opic12592.html

  4. #34
    Member Mark J's Avatar
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    Regular work, house and yard work keeps getting in the way of my jeep, but... the valve is out. It wasn't too hard. I'd rather have a spring compressor that fits in more like a "needle nose" style but this worked. I forgot to take another shot. I did not use that wood on top as seen. I stuck a socket there on top of the valve head and it worked much better. I just tapped on top of the screw portion and the little retainers popped out and I easily removed the dead valve.
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    Last edited by Mark J; 05-17-2021 at 06:06 PM.

  5. #35
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    On your way now Mark! Are you going to cut the existing seat or put in an insert?

  6. #36
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    OK - I'm going to butt in here. I'm curious.

    I saw in the CJ2 link how to cut a seat with the three angle cutters, but just how do you insert a new hardened seat? I don't plan on doing it - but I'm curious!

  7. #37
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    As smooth as the broken edges are on the divot - that valve had been running that way for a while.

  8. #38
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    To install a seat you use an insert cutter and cut out a large area for the hardened insert. If you can you freeze the insert and warm the head to install. Sufficient press fit on the insert is critical. Not enough and it will fall out and ruin things badly. Too much can crack the head.

    The odds are the seat is already hardened. Depending on how bad the seat is burned up, you may be able to just cut the existing seat and salvage it. I don't see any advantage to installing one hardened seat unless the existing seat is just too far gone.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 05-18-2021 at 03:11 PM.

  9. #39
    Member Mark J's Avatar
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    Ok, my F134 head wants to go back on. However I don't like the head bolts. Plus I don't think you're really supposed to re-use them. I'm sure these were at one time. And, since they're nearly 70 years old, I don't think it's wise to put them back in and risk a break.
    I'm fairly close to two speciality hardware stores that carry similar bolts. But they don't have the wider portion of the shank just below the head. I'd think if that was what Willys used, then it was critical and for a reason.
    Comments?
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  10. #40
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    If this is the correct replacement, it looks like a standard bolt to me.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/cylinde...4-134-f-engine

    But they also sell the set:
    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nos-15-...4-134-f-engine
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 06-02-2021 at 06:40 PM.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

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