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Thread: Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

  1. #111
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Another Great way to prime the oil gallery’s on the Buick V6’s is to remove the distributor and they’ll be a shaft with a slot in it that is driven by the distributor via the cam. That drives the oil pump, either get a old socket and drill a hole through it to put a 1/4” pin through it welded on both sides of the socket to hold it in place and hook it onto a drill and turn it clockwise until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge or use a long regular screwdriver hooked up to a drill.
    Before you pull the distributor davide, pull the cap and mark where the rotor is facing so when you stuff it all back together you’ll be half fast close to having it on time to fire the old girl up.
    I’d run the drill for a while if your getting decent oil pressure.
    An old secret I learned from my engine builder when I raced with V6 Buicks.
    Last edited by TJones; 03-16-2023 at 04:42 PM.

  2. #112
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Bob and TJones, thanks for all the help/advice you have given. I would have made critical mistakes along the way without your input (and everybody else).

    I've taken the last couple days off as my daughter is back for Spring break from college. I took the lower radiator hose off and have a much better view of the oil sender. From what I can see, it or the gauge hose has been leaking for years. I'll be replacing the sender but want to clean all the gunk hiding under the distributor and coil. It's an absolute mess!

    It's my understanding that the oil sender KW sells is really for the 4-cylinder and that an adapter bushing is needed. If I buy theirs, they do not sell/include the adapter. I did come across another Jeep parts house that does include the adapter bushing with the sender and will probably get it there. The header and air rail bolts come in tomorrow and I will get those installed. I'll probably remove the coil and distributor too and finalize the block cleaning.

    When I get her all cleaned up, I'll post some more pics.

  3. #113
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Today marked a little progress...I got the GL4 ordered for the transmission and t-case. I also picked up the bolts for the headers and air rails. After spending two hours battling the right bank header I realized the header could be aligned with the head much easier if I took the muffler off. Twenty minutes later I had all header and air rail bolts on the right side done. Now that I know the trick, I will tackle the left side tomorrow.

  4. #114
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Well, I had some time to kill before dinner and decided to do the bolts on the drivers side. All done with that now and I set the crank pulley to TDC before I take the distributor out tomorrow.

    I forgot that my good friend has several Grand Nationals and told me about the same trick TJones did.

  5. #115
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Davide the 225 odd fires are a different breed than the 3.8 even fires in the Grand Nationals, take your time and be patient bc they will frustrate the heck outta you.
    Not real sure what Buick was thinking when they designed them
    They don’t have a lot of power but the torque is crazy, it’s probably bc of the 50 or 60 lb flywheel they put in them.
    Keep up the good work and she’ll be a beast!!!
    Novak Adapters has a pretty good article on the odd fire V6.
    Last edited by TJones; 03-21-2023 at 06:25 AM.

  6. #116
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Thanks for the Novak article. I'll poke around for it later today.
    I had to laugh a little when taking off the mufflers, which were your everyday turbo style of the 80's. I found myself pulling out bits of wall insulation and lots of old bird seed (shells cracked and seed eaten) on both sides. It made me reflect on a comment made in the startup post. I definitely had critters squatting in the exhaust at one time

  7. #117
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Acorns make a machine gun type sound when firing up an engine for the first time of the season, especially when I had plywood stacked behind the car.

  8. #118
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Gotta love the squirrels! I had a cat fall asleep on my intake manifold once. The fan was not kind. Hell of a wake up call when I fired it up for work.

  9. #119
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    I got a little ahead of myself and forgot to mention that the front pinion seal is in now. Yes, it was much easier to swap those out than get the yoke off.

    Here are a few pics of the header bolt swap and air rail plugs in:
    Attachment 10339 IMG_2218.jpg

    I am now tackling the oil sender switch and have run into another small problem. I don't think that what I found was factory, but I don't know. I also discovered why there was an enormous amount of oil saturation in the area. Perhaps the best way to start to describe the issue is with a couple pictures.
    IMG_2217.jpg IMG_2223.jpg
    The sending unit was threaded into the end of a brass tee. The other end of the tee was threaded into the block. On the perpendicular side of the tee was where the oil pressure gauge line connected.
    When I removed the oil pressure gauge line and reduction fittings, I was able to unscrew by hand the tee with the sender still attached. It seems to me that a wrench should have been required to do this. When I look at the brass fitting coming out of the block, there only seems to be a few threads available for the tee.
    Perhaps I need to clean the area around the tee better (as this is the first time I have had good access to it. Maybe once the gunk is removed, I will see more threads. What I would really like to do is remove the short male fitting in the block and replace it with one a little longer. This may give me more thread to use and create a much better seal.

    Have any of you run into this??
    Last edited by davide; 03-22-2023 at 08:25 PM.

  10. #120
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    If it was me davide I would plug that oil pressure line and pick another area closer to the top end to see what the oil pressure is closer to the cam and top end. Your real close to the oil pump where it’s at now, let me look on mine and see where it is on mine, I’m thinking it comes off a cam journal meaning if your getting decent oil pressure at a cam journal on the top end your definitely getting good pressure on the crankshaft end.
    I’ll get a picture of mine today. There are plenty of places to hook up the oil line on the V6’s.
    You must have a gauge and an “idiot light” on yours if you have an oil line and sending unit.
    Personally I don’t like the electric sending units, I want to know what the oil pressure is a lot of times the oil pressure could be 15-20 lbs or even less and still make the idiot light go off, if that makes any sense, but that’s just me thinking out loud and being anal about what the motors doing and how her “blood pressure” is.
    Last edited by TJones; 03-23-2023 at 05:31 AM.

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