Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

[bmorgil]

The R to 1 shift slides that big gear in the back in and out of the reverse idler. It has to travel a bit. You wouldn't be able to shift it if you have the forks out of place. It would be very difficult to get the cover on that way.

I think '56 is on to it, the viscosity of the oil and its "stickiness" are dragging everything along for a ride. If the input shaft is spinning, the counter shaft will also be spinning as will all the gears that are in mesh. There's quite a bit of energy.

[davide]

Thanks 56 and Bob. It makes a lot of sense to me after you explain it.

I got the carb intake line off and using my remote starter, I could see fuel occasionally popping up into the filter and then flow back to the pump. It really irks me because this pump is fairly new and was used once about a 1.5 years back to do the same roar test. Luckily O'Reilly's has a lifetime warranty on it.

[bmorgil]

The ethanol in today's fuel is hell on anything in the fuel system other than Teflon. A diaphragm check valve style fuel pump, is particularly susceptible to being left with any of it at all still inside. Carburetors also take a beating.

[davide]

We have one gas station that still sells ethanol free fuel. I already have one car I get gas from there. Better make it two now...

[davide]

Nothing went right this week...

I drained the t-case and put a new seal in. I honestly think that the one that was in there was just fine. My leak looked to be coming from the splines and I used a little aviation sealer on the front half of the yoke splines. I didn't want to push any sealer into the case. Today I added the gear oil back in and immediately saw it start to weep from behind the nut washer.

IMG_3889.jpg

I know that the Univ. Manual calls for 52 ounces, but I am filling the case to the top of the fill plug. Am I overfilling the case causing this to happen? The pump that I use says that it dispenses one ounce per pump and I have counted about 70 pumps to get to the top of the fill plug. I also see that there is some air with each pump and I figured that I am not getting a full ounce with each pump. I can measure out the 52 ounces and be specific if need be. In addition to that, is there a specific way I can seal the splines?

I got the exchange fuel pump and put it on. Right away I noticed that the threads on the forward mount were stripped and the pump wasn't seating properly. Luckily this part of the timing cover is a through hole to the outside of the case and I have a heli-coil kit ready to make it right. The rear mount is a through hole that goes inside the timing cover case.
Even though the pump was not fully seated against the case, I still tried to turn the engine over and see if fuel would pump into the carb. No it did not, so I am wondering if the cam follower was just not getting enough of the pump arm to do it's job.
Tomorrow, I will drain the t-case again and get the heli-coil installed.

I hate unproductive weeks!!

[bmorgil]

David, it sounds like the spline to shaft fit is a little less than optimum on the yoke. You will need to be sure the splines are very clean and de-greased. Use silicone on the splines. Put the silicone on the yoke splines and install the yoke. This will keep the silicone out of the case. Torque it up and let it cure overnight at least, before filling it up with lube.

Now that fuel pump? Hook it up to the fuel with it off the motor. Pump it by hand and make sure it is working. It is possible the pump arm wasn't moving sufficiently. It is also possible to "miss" the cam with the pump arm. Be sure when you reinstall it you have the arm up on the cam.

[davide]

I really dislike using silicone and that is why I used the aviation sealer instead. It was applied to the yoke as you described and I can do the same with a quality rtv. My big question is about the possibility of overfilling the t-case. Should it be filled up to the level of the fill plug?

[bmorgil]

Silicone is the only thing that will get the job done consistently for you in this case. Used correctly and for the right thing, it is very good stuff.

Yes, fill it till it just starts to drip out of the fill hole. You need to fill the trans the same way. You need to fill them both to the plug. Here is a link on the way the oiling works.

https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...se-Lube-Levels

[davide]

Thanks Bob, I saw that link a while back and noticed the lubrication holes between the transmission and t-case when I had them apart.

I've had to take a break from working on the Hot Mess this past week. Partly due to wallowing in my own self-pitty (never good) about the spline leaks and fuel pump. I've also been under the weather with a man cold. It helps to see the progress '56 is making and Hodakaguys finished MB. The motivation I desperately need right now.

I'll be offline for the next three weeks. The wife and I are headed to Spain to celebrate our 25th anniversary. If I see any cool Jeeps while I'm there, I'll post them when I get back.

[gmwillys]

Safe travels and Happy Anniversary Davide!