Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

[gmwillys]

As long as you are getting fuel to the fuel pump, then you are correct in your thoughts on the fuel pump. If you are not getting fuel to the pump, then you might want to take some compressed air and blow back through the line to ensure the fuel line doesn't have a bbee or other insect not stuck in it. If you hear air bubbling in the fuel tank, then you still don't have fuel flowing to the fuel pump connection, then apply air pressure to the fuel tank inlet, (not a lot of air, roughly 15 psi or so). Then see what you have flowing. Also look at the fuel cap to ensure that it is vented enough to allow air in to let the fuel to flow. A quick check is to remove the cap and see if the fuel starts to flow. If all checks out, then the fuel pump is the only culprit remaining.

[bmorgil]

I would say it is pretty common for a fuel pump to go bad when sitting a long time. The diaphragms and valves dry out and fail. Check the oil and make sure it isn't leaking fuel past the diaphragms into your oil. I think gm has you on the path to checking your pump.

[davide]

Thanks guys for the additional tests. I didn't think about the situation of the line being blocked or the vented cap not venting. What concerns me the most is the possibility of fuel getting into the engine oil. Say bye-bye to the new, expensive Valvoline.

While I am still going to check the flow to the fuel pump, I have already ordered a new one. It will arrive at the parts store this afternoon.

[LarrBeard]

".. Say bye-bye to the new, expensive Valvoline.

VR-1? It's expensive, probably an overkill - but the camshafts, lifters and other parts and pieces really like the zinc rich oils.

[test1328]

I agree with all that's been said regarding the fuel pump. I did all of what you describe when I was trying to get my CJ5 restarted after 40 years. I went through everything and found no fuel flowing to the carb. I replaced the fuel pump and it started right up. I would guess it will be the same for you once you change the pump.

[bmorgil]

Priming the carb via the bowl vent is a good way to avoid excessive cranking. Put a few oz of fuel down the vent, pump it a few times and it should fire right up. If there is no fuel supply it will run out shortly and stall. If the fuel pump is up to snuff, it should keep on ticking.

[davide]

Well guys, I have fantastic news....

Today I tried all the above tests. I took the inlet fuel line off the pump and there was nothing. I then took an air hose to it and could hear the bubbling in the tank. So now I replace the pump. 20 minutes later, I crank her over and BINGO, fuel flowing nicely through the filter. BTW, I had intentionally loosen the compression inlet to the carb to create an easier flow.
IMG_2630.jpg

With all the excitement of all this, I put the spark plugs in, wires on, lower radiator hose and radiator fill. I pumped the gas pedal a couple times, turned the ignition switch and was met with a health roar!! A small, but monumental victory. I turned the engine off immediately as the t-case is off and the transmission is dry. I want to run the engine longer, but am unsure if I can do this. Can I fill the T86A with GL-4 and run the engine for a short period (30 seconds) without it flinging through the output shaft?
IMG_2629.jpg

So after two years of toiling around, I am back at the initial reason the Jeep sat idle in Dad's garage for so long. The rebuilt t-case has to go in...

[bmorgil]

I don't think so, you may not want to do that. If the transfer case is not on the back of the trans (T84 or T90), the lube will definitely come out the back. There is a transfer hole for lube as well as the output is not sealed. As it spins it will lift the lube to the transfer hole and it will pour out. The transfer case is kind of the rear cover for the transmission. Patience, put the transfer case on! You would hate to burn the bushings in the transmission or gall the bearings. You heard it run, your on your way now. If something is amiss, the transmission and transfer case are easier to pull hooked together as one.
https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...se-Lube-Levels


Make sure you have the back of the engine supported. Without the transfer case/cross member and mount, the only thing holding the back of the motor are the front mounts. If they flex enough they can break and/or allow the engine to tilt back and strike the firewall.

[davide]

Thanks Bob. I do recall reading the datasheet you attached and had an idea of what the answer was going to be, but thought I'd ask. Your comment about patience is spot on and I will start to secure the rear engine and remove the T86A. This is almost how I found the Jeep before towing it home. My Dad had removed the t-case and rear mount beam. He had wood blocks under the tranny, keeping it and the engine supported. I put the rear beam and mount in before bringing the Hot Mess home.

I have a little bit of work to complete on the t-case first. Recall in my initial posts, I was attempting to get matched speedo gears. Santa did get me those gears (once they were off back order) and I have yet to put them in. I did a dry fit and found that they were correct. I also noticed that the drive gear was a little loose on the t-case output shaft and the driven gear spun intermittently.
In another post, I read were a little JB Weld was used to secure the drive gear to the shaft. This is something I am thinking about doing.

[bmorgil]

Don't do that either davide. Hahaha, your going to think I am nagging you! The speedometer gear is a slip fit on the output shaft. When installing the yoke it will press up against the gear and hold it very nicely. It is sandwiched if you will, between the yoke and the output bearing inner race. It is designed that way so the gear ratios can be changed without complete disassembly. If you glue it on, that wont be the case.