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Thread: Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

  1. #31
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The 3.73 ratio is not listed in my chart. That wont matter much unless you are using stock diameter tires. 31 tall tires are going to match up pretty well with the 3.53 ratio gears. To get it perfect you can use a ratio adapter. The speedo gears are matched sets. If you mix and match speedo gears they are not going to mesh correctly. Your 448162 pencil gear doesn't show up in the chart I have. I don't know what drive gear part number mates with it. There were a lot of speedometer combinations and parts used during the later years. The change to plastic gears comes in around the late '60s. There were several part numbers. The key is to use the correct drive gear/driven gear mated combination. You should not use a combination that is not matched. As you showed in your photo, though you have a 15 tooth gear, it doesn't match your drive gear. I would say someone pulled a gear from a different vehicle like a Bronco or IH Scout. The pencil gears are made to match a specific drive gear.

    You could swap in the original A-1511 and A-5707. These are for a 5.38 ratio. You would then correct the speedometer with an adapter from a speedometer shop. I would put together the best matched combination you can find and correct it with an adapter. This is the way most of them end up as getting the right gears is getting difficult. On mine I use the original gears and tall tire's and I "do the math" on the speedometer! I know how far off it is. I have seen the speedo drive gear slip on the shaft and cause a jumpy speedometer. This is usually the plastic gears slipping. Using unmatched gears usually ends up with an erratic speedometer and stripped gears.

    Speedometer adapters: https://speedometercablesusa.com/gear_box_adapters.html

  2. #32
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Here is another site that has speedo adaptors that I have used for my speedo

    https://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/speedo.asp

  3. #33
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for those links. Seems I spent way too much time researching the Super 18 and the drive/driven gear combinations today.

    To refresh on the driven gear I bought (448162), it is for SW/SD/PU models. BTW, I will NEVER use a certain Willys parts store in Yuma, AZ again!!

    Since my Super 18 is still based on Dana 18 internals, I am going to purchase the A1511 drive gear and see if it aligns with the above driven gear. If not, I will look into one of the other driven gear options we have discussed earlier.

    Time to shift gears for now (pun intended) and finish tearing down the right side of the front axle so I can get it all rebuilt.

  4. #34
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    If a person really needed an accurate speedometer, they could also mount their phone where it can be seen and just use their favorite gps app. Before we had super computers in our pockets I had a CJ5 that I could not keep a speedo cable in. It broke 3 before I gave up and just went without.
    Last edited by 51 CJ3; 10-16-2021 at 08:13 AM.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  5. #35
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davide View Post
    Thanks guys for those links. Seems I spent way too much time researching the Super 18 and the drive/driven gear combinations today.

    To refresh on the driven gear I bought (448162), it is for SW/SD/PU models. BTW, I will NEVER use a certain Willys parts store in Yuma, AZ again!!

    Since my Super 18 is still based on Dana 18 internals, I am going to purchase the A1511 drive gear and see if it aligns with the above driven gear. If not, I will look into one of the other driven gear options we have discussed earlier.

    Time to shift gears for now (pun intended) and finish tearing down the right side of the front axle so I can get it all rebuilt.
    Try this website, it may help

    https://www.tciauto.com/speedometer-gear-calculator

  6. #36
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davide View Post
    I am going to purchase the A1511 drive gear and see if it aligns with the above driven gear.
    David, as I mentioned below, the gear sets are "Matched". The A1511 only Correctly matches up to the A-5707. A mismatch usually ends up putting metal shavings in the case when the gear teeth wear off. You should never mix speedometer gears between sets. The tooth profiles are different.

  7. #37
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmorgil View Post
    David, as I mentioned below, the gear sets are "Matched". The A1511 only Correctly matches up to the A-5707. A mismatch usually ends up putting metal shavings in the case when the gear teeth wear off. You should never mix speedometer gears between sets. The tooth profiles are different.
    That is correct bmorgil, a mis-matched set will end up in disaster trust me I learned the disaster way

  8. #38
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    OK, got it. I appreciate all of this feedback and will focus on a matched set.

    I ordered the sealed 5-260X u-joints for the front axles today. They should be here tomorrow and hoping I can get them changed out Monday. I'll update on that too.

  9. #39
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    I removed the left axle u-joint the old school way. Big socket, little socket and a vice. Not much fun, but it worked. This morning I went to my local auto store and got a loaner u-joint tool. Wish I would have done that first!!

    I am getting ready to put the new sealed u-joint on and noticed the rubber boots doing all the sealing appear to be damaged. They looked new and I am guessing this is a manufacturing issue. I am asking for some thoughts/advice on using these based on these pictures. Would you use these if you were going to run dry knuckles?

    20211019_120658.jpg 20211019_120748.jpg

  10. #40
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Man - those seals look like they have dried out and cracked. I wonder just how old those jonts are and how long they have been sitting on somene's shelves? I wouldn't use them .... I'd try again for a better set.

    I've run into a similar issue with u-joint seal boots on my Timken drive shaft. Even "new" boots only last about 500-or so miles before they crack and split at the folds in the bellows.

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