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Thread: Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

  1. #1
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

    Here begins my journey to getting Dad's 1967 CJ-5 back to her glory days...

    This saga started nearly 35 years ago, when my Dad bought the CJ. As the story has it, the owner before my Dad owned 2 CJ's and used one to restore or modify the other. Of course the one my Dad bought was the one that got picked through. It ran and that's all that mattered to him until the day the transfer case seized. My Dad removed the case, exchanged it for a rebuilt one and everything sat on his garage floor for the next 20 years.

    At Dad's house and the Jeep is barely visible. Junk piled up on all sides, top and underneath. It took all day to remove the clutter and gain some access to her.

    20210517_153025.jpg

    I've managed to locate the various pieces for the transfer case and get ready to load the Jeep on to the trailer. The first thing I notice is that there is no e-brake and the brake pedal goes to the floor. Good thing I grabbed my come-along and tow straps. One click at a time and she is finally loaded.

    20210520_131223.jpg

    2 days drive and I'm back home. Time to unload her and get her ready for some big repairs.

    65293.jpg

    I drained the remains of 20 year old gas from her. The tank is rusted and I have just bought a new one along with a new sender. Much cheaper than the prices I got for boil, cleaning and seal.

    Time to look at the brake issues. It appears as if the owner before my Dad needed the entire e-brake assembly. No drum or backing plate on the transfer case. No cable, brackets or pull handle either. Do I just forego the e-brake, thoughts?? The master cylinder is void of any fluid and the inside looks really bad. New master needs to be ordered and I might as well just get the wheel cylinders while I'm at it.

    I turn my attention to the front axle and have pulled everything off the LF down to the knuckle. The wheel bearings have no grease, but a sludgy residue on them. I'm expecting to see the thick grease Bob has described in the knuckle, but there is only the thick sludge at the very base of the knuckle case. The axle looks good and the u-joint is solid (no slop or yoke play). The sludge has the distinct odor of gear oil and I suspect the inner seals leak. I want to replace the u-joints with the sealed style Bob has described as I want to run the knuckle dry. Does this u-joint look like the sealed style? I don't think it is, but would like a second, third, forth opinion.

    20210605_152337.jpg

    This is where I am up to now. The family leaves in a couple days for our Summer vacation and I will return in a couple weeks to continue. Please throw your thoughts and ideas my way. I look forward to hearing from all of you.

    -David
    Last edited by davide; 06-19-2021 at 08:53 PM. Reason: edit pics

  2. #2
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    It does look like a sealed joint. Easy enough to tell David, if there is no grease zerk and no provision for one (no drilled hole in the end of one of the caps or the center cross itself) it is a sealed U-joint.

  3. #3
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    Thanks for that input Bob (please let me know if you prefer bmorgil, I don't want to offend anyone).

    Everything you said is correct about the u-joint not having a zerk. I was only hesitant because the bottom of a sealed u-joint generally has a boot or other seal at the bottom of the cap. Here is a better picture that you can see the needle bearings exposed at the base of the cap. No boot exists on these.

    20210605_152304.jpg
    Last edited by davide; 06-08-2021 at 01:50 PM. Reason: typo

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Whoa! Glad you sent that photo (and I put my glasses on). Those are original. The seal was removed and the joint was to run in a lube bath. It will quickly burn up if the knuckle runs low on lube or runs in contaminated lube. The sealed U-Joint is a Spicer 5-260X.

    You can call me anything but late for dinner.... been waiting to use that one!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 06-08-2021 at 07:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    I picked up a 15 tooth speedo gear and threaded bushing as it was missing in my Dana 18, single shifter t-case. I can get the gear in the transfer case and hand tighten the retainer bushing all the way down. I expect to see the end of the speedo shaft, where the square speedo cable goes into it turn, but I don't. The speedo drive gear is inside the transfer case and I do see it turn when I turn the output yoke. I can barely see the mate between the drive gear and the speedo gear as well (when the retainer bushing is out). So I am at a loss on why the speedo gear isn't turning.

    I called the store I purchased it from and asked what the difference was between the 3 different 15 tooth gears they offer. The answer I got was, "a 15 tooth speedo gear is a 15 tooth speedo gear. They are all the same". The difference on their Website was model specific and I did verify that what I ordered is not what they sent me Is he correct in his statement? Oh yeah, of course he does not have what I specifically ordered.

    There are Stewart Warner casting numbers on these shafts and the one I received was 448162 that is applicable for SW/SD/PU models.
    Last edited by davide; 06-09-2021 at 05:32 PM. Reason: typo

  6. #6
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
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    Glad you are double checking. Thats the smart way. My only add is blocks can be an e brake. Blocks can't be a piston or paint. I put the e brake on the tomorrow list for mine. Same with the speed-o. In fact, they will probably be fall since I'm more interested in running and driving. Depends on what you can tolerate as you go through. Is yours a fix it once, fix a you go build? Or a get it running and paint it later build?

  7. #7
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    Hello, my end goal is to get her running as Washington has a fairly short Summer and I want to have some wheeling. I am not going to get her all dolled up as I would be too paranoid to to get a scratch. The body is in great condition and the paint is good enough. She just needs a lot of work!

    I did do some research and did find that (at least on kaiserwillys parts pages, their speedo gear is the same part number for CJ/SW/SD/PU models. So it does appear as if all the 15 tooth gears are interchangeable.

    Here is the short list of all systems that need some kind of work to get it on the road or trails:
    - drivetrain
    - brakes
    - engine
    - fuel
    - electrical

    I have started on the drivetrain and brakes, but it seems the more I do, the more that needs to be done. I hope this is not perpetual!

  8. #8
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    David I think you should settle in and think along the lines that you are probably going to have to fix about everything! She is old man. Just stay with it and fix as you go. I think your on track. Yes expect to be tinkering on your old classic till the end of time. Get it moving and stopping and go from there.

    It sounds like it is possible the speedo drive gear on the output shaft has an issue if the pencil gear is not turning.

  9. #9
    Junior Member davide's Avatar
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    I've been thinking about the speedo drive gear some more and think that it may be installed backwards. The more I look at the the way the splines would align, it appears incorrect. It looks fairly straight forward to remove the housing the "pencil gear" goes into, reverse the drive gear on the output shaft (180 turn to have the spline angled different) and see what happens.

    This transfer case is filled with a lot of mystery as it was a rebuilt exchange from 20 years ago. I don't feel the need to tear it all apart, but it will set some serious doubt in my head if flipping the drive gear does the trick.

    One question about this, there are some shims between the main housing and the "pencil gear" cap housing. I was curious as to what I use to seal the unit back up. A gasket or RTV? Is there a spec on the torque of the various bolts on the transfer case (including the yoke nuts)?
    Last edited by davide; 06-10-2021 at 08:00 PM. Reason: typo

  10. #10
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Something has me a little puzzled.
    A few threads back David you mentioned it was a “single shifter Dana 18 transfer case”
    “Doctor Dana” would be able to answer this, what year did they switch from a double lever to a single lever Dana 18 TC?
    This makes me wonder if it has in fact a T90 tranny bolted to a Dana 18 TC and if that is the mystery with the speedo and the ebrake?

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