Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

[bmorgil]

It is truly a handful! You definitely need to get used to it. A lot of power in a very small and light package.

[TJones]

Davide you won’t be able to see the oil gallery’s that I referred to earlier unless the engine is out and the bell housing is off the motor, I’ve attached 2 pictures of where they are located. The 2 you can hook onto are 1/4” plugs next to the cam journal and you need to drill a 1/2” hole on the one with the yellow circle to get the oil line out of the bell housing to the gauge.

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[davide]

And that's exactly what I saw, the bell housing blocking access to the cam

These were all great ideas that you had, but I will head out to my local Home Depot and grab the same male adapter, only it will be a little longer. Enough to get me a great seal on both ends. I liked that thought of having the gauge line closer to the top end, but I should be fine with it going to the tee.

I tracked the sender and as of yesterday it was in St. Louis headed this way. I'll take this time to clean up the thermostat housing and battery tray. Another trip to Costco for a group 24 battery while I'm at it.

[TJones]

You should be fine with what you’re doing davide.
The sending unit will tell you if the cluster in the speedo is working the way it should and the mechanical will tell the truth.
Your doing it right, keep up the good work and keep us posted!!!

[davide]

I received the sender today and hoped to get everything installed with a slightly longer nipple. Unfortunately, I discovered the 1.5 inch nipple I got made it impossible to get the tee on without removing the right motor mount. I am contemplating getting a 3 to 4 inch nipple which will clear the mount or take the mount out in order to install the shorter more compact nipple. The engineer in me struggles with this (less is more). I'll chew on it and figure it out tomorrow.

[LarrBeard]

"The engineer in me struggles with this"

There are times we need to tell the engineer in our soul to sit back and ask Bubba how he would do it.

"Hey y'all, lookie here".

That corner is so tight that there is just not a whole lot of room to do much. Instead of trying to work a fitting in there, put a line in the oil pressure port. Run the line to a convenient place (or just hide it somewhere) and put the tee fitting there. One side of the tee gets the sensor; the other gets the pressure line to the mechanical gauge. Make up a bracket or just tie-wrap the line.

[davide]

Well LarrBeard, you win The other engineer in me says work smart, not hard.

I picked up a 3" and 4" nipple. Turns out the 3 inch nipple will work just fine and gives me plenty of extra room by the motor mount. These pics are just a dry fit. I would like to route the oil gauge line between the head and the alternator bracket, but there may be too much heat there. I'll probably route it as shown with the pic including the alternator bracket.

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[LarrBeard]

Now that you have that rock out of your sock - on to bigger and better things to do!

[davide]

I am always thinking several steps ahead of the particular task I am working on. That said, I will most likely have the oil sender and line finished this weekend and move on to spinning the oil pump shaft under the distributor. After getting the top end with some oil, I will start making final preparations to firing up the Dauntless.

This brings me to fuel. Bob, I read what you wrote in the Tech Library regarding this. Do you guys know if Buick hardened the valve seats? While I have a small amount of lead additive and access to ethanal-free gas, I really want to be able to pull up to a pump and top her off.

Thanks for your thoughts

[gmwillys]

Passenger car engines built previous to 1975, it is recommended to add lead additive to the fuel unless the head(s) have been reworked with either stainless steel valves or hardened valve seats. Your Buick didn't originally have hardened seats, unless it was a later model engine installed.