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Thread: Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

  1. #251
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    Personally, I have never cared for nutserts. It may just be my experience with aluminum aircraft structures but I consider them unreliable. Even the ones with tabs don’t hold their position very long on any location that sees much use.

    McMaster-Carr should have nearly every style caged nut made.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  2. #252
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    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  3. #253
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    I can say that my brother's f100 used nut-serts pretty much everywhere. The design is slick, however after 50+ years they tend to break of the body. And just spin, which in a tight spot can tend to be quite a pain. I'm sure having fresh one would be alot better though. On Flossy I'm planning on welding some nuts on the backside of the floor. Not factory correct but keeps things simple/cheap.

  4. #254
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    What is nice about the floor panel is that the square cut-outs are factory. I know that nutserts have their place, but in this case, a caged nut is the right solution. Besides KW, I found the caged nuts at Partsdude4x4, Fastenal and the site Jeff mentioned. It was surprising to see the cost difference ranges, $3 to 41 cents per piece.

    What I was really hoping for was a recommendation on the transmission removal. Do I remove the transmission where it mounts to the adapter or keep the adapter attached and remove the assembly at the bell housing. The Univ. Manual does not mention the adapter between the transmission and bell housing. It only states to remove the bolts at the bell housing. The pics I showed a couple days back shows this adapter. The t-case shifter bolts to this adapter.

  5. #255
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You are correct CJ3 in the fact that the nutserts aren't real effective on aluminum with the shallow splines. We use a lot of nutserts in sheet metal in our production. Even with our unskilled labor, we do not have too many issues unless the bolt is cross threaded severely.

  6. #256
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    The cage nuts do give you a little float if don't line up just right.

    If I recall correctly, you have about 25% float with a cage nut to line things up. Nutserts and welded nuts have to be just about dead on to line up unless there is tolerance on the mating hole..

  7. #257
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davide View Post
    .......... What I was really hoping for was a recommendation on the transmission removal. Do I remove the transmission where it mounts to the adapter or keep the adapter attached and remove the assembly at the bell housing. The Univ. Manual does not mention the adapter between the transmission and bell housing. It only states to remove the bolts at the bell housing. The pics I showed a couple days back shows this adapter. The t-case shifter bolts to this adapter.
    David, leave the adapter on the transmission. Unbolt the adapter from the bell housing.

  8. #258
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks Bob.

    With all this nutsert and caged nut discussion happening, a new segment in Tech Questions may appear

    I head down to CA next week and I don't know if I will get to the transmission before then. I'll be gone a couple weeks and may disappear again. Should I run into the Simpson, I'll send an update.
    Last edited by davide; 02-22-2024 at 01:56 PM.

  9. #259
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Eureka, analog gold!!
    IMG_2919.jpg

  10. #260
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You've struck gold there David!

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