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Thread: Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

  1. #151
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    On mine I ended up cutting the top tray of of the old one and splicing a new top on from KW. I could not find one that was exact on the lower portion. I cut the new one to fit the old support. Of course you will need to get someone to weld it up for you. If you can find someone with a portable MIG Welder, they can fix you right up.

  2. #152
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    I've been busy with life the past couple of weeks, but got a chance today to look at the new battery tray and figure out how to modify it to work. It actually looks fairly straight forward. The diagonal support bars that mount to the top of the firewall align perfect, nothing required there. The lower bracket mounting holes of the tray are off ever so slightly. I penciled in crosshairs to give some perspective.
    IMG_2320.jpg IMG_2321.jpg
    One could elongate the bracket holes towards the edges, but I don't feel that gives enough of the mounting bracket to securely hold the battery. It seems that if the bracket were about an inch longer width-wise, you could drill holes to the existing holes on the firewall. I'm going to get a rectangular piece of metal, the same height and thickness and add an inch to each side. This should be approx. 2"x6" and find my local welder to attach it.

    I mentioned in an earlier post that I was also looking to replace the rotted tube grommet on the valve cover and replace it with a push-in crank breather. Turns out there is already a breather there and I have ordered a 1.25" push-in oil filler cap.
    In the process of taking that grommet out, I noticed the bottom of it (the end inside the valve cover) had a chunk missing. I was afraid this dropped into the valve train and I wanted to remove it. I took the valve cover off and no chunk was found. I'm guessing it fell off years ago and has been slowly deteriorating to where it no longer exists.
    So now I'm off to my next question...Any suggestions on how to clean the top of the head where the gasket sits. Yes, I have wire wheels and roloc disks, but I don't want to have that debris get in the valve train area.
    IMG_2318.jpg IMG_2319.jpg

  3. #153
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Davide,

    The chunk of the gromet is most likely residing with the sludge in the bottom of the oil pan.

    The sealing surface for the valve cover can be cleaned up with a piece of Scotch Brite. A few swipes, and all the gunk will be removed. You can lay a rag down to catch any chunks that may get close to falling down into the head. You don't want the surface to be perfectly smooth, a little grit will actually help the gasket to seal.

  4. #154
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    " ...Yes, I have wire wheels and roloc disks .."

    I concur with GMWillys - you're overthinking this. Scotchbrite, a putty knife; something like that is plenty. Just pack some shop rags around things to catch the crud as it comes off..

  5. #155
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I appreciate you reminding me about this.
    I'm an engineer. I always overthink these things

  6. #156
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Just remember, simple machines most often require simple solutions.

  7. #157
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    Things have been at a grinding halt for the past three weeks... One of my hobbies is to fly big RC planes. They are incredibly fun as well as incredibly dangerous. I fell into the dangerous camp a few weeks back. After starting my engine and walking to the back of the plane, my left hand and fingers decided to cross the path of a high spinning propeller. A trip to the ER and 22 stitches later, I'm lucky to have my fingers in tact.

    I am still not able to do much with my left hand while it heals, but I did get a few things done before the incident. I cleaned up the heads where the valve cover sits and got a hold of a friend with a welder. I feel the head is clean enough. There looks to be natural pitting in the cast and what little gunk is left in those pits should not pose a sealing issue with the new gaskets (so I'm assuming). I plan on applying a thin coat of Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket to the new cork gaskets. Thoughts on this? yeah/neigh?
    IMG_2402.jpg IMG_2401.jpg

    I'm hoping the battery mod gets done in the next week.
    Last edited by davide; 06-09-2023 at 06:37 PM.

  8. #158
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    Sorry to hear about your mishap. Those composite blades can be like razors. Wood not much better. I have been out of the hobby quite a while but I seem to recall the motors turning around 10,000 rpm at power. I think one racer I knew claimed 14,000 on his little 2-stroke glow engine. Nobody could catch him. A lot of us opted for the sound of 4-strokes. Only giant scale fliers were using gasoline back then. I still have most of the stuff. Probably need new radios to pick it up again.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  9. #159
    Senior Member davide's Avatar
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    I appreciate the thought. It's my own fault. Got too comfortable and didn't respect the running motor as I should have. It happened on a 60 series U-Can-Do SF running an OS .91 4-stroke. I found a great retired engineer who makes his own remote glow driver. I've bought two as this happened when I went to remove my ignitor. One for this plane and the other for a Super Chipmunk running the same size motor. I'm the new poster child for our club on what not to do. I don't mind as we have a lot of kids that need to learn from someone else on the safety needed in this sport.

    That aside, what do you think on the valve covers???

  10. #160
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    davide, this is how we learn! Your experience will prove the point to those who are smart enough to advance from your unfortunate event. I am positive you wont let it happen again! I have a few "examples" I have used along the way. Comments to others like "you see this scar?" Or, "one day I just wasn't careful enough with, and ......."

    I am just not a fan of a lot of goop on anything. It usually makes things leak. It is best used in an area where leaking is already prevalent for reasons a gasket cant cover. Like a damaged area on the sealing surface or parting lines. Silicone's and the like can cause the gasket to slip. They can also cause the gasket to not perform as designed. Some stuff gets a sealant. The service manual or the gasket manufacturer will tell you if the gasket needs goop. Most modern gaskets have something on or in them. On valve covers, the practice for covers that will be removed periodically to check valves, a little goop is helpful. Here use a "Permatex High Tack" or something similar lightly on the cover surface only. Since you are reusing the gasket, this will keep the gasket stuck to the cover and make it much easier to pull and replace for valve adjustments. You want a good clean flat surface on the head. The condition of the cover (good flange no bent in bolt holes) will determine if it leaks.

    On a valve cover that is not coming off again (hydraulic lifters) clean everywhere.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 06-10-2023 at 06:55 AM.

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