Great photo! Nice fountain. Bad master cylinder.
gm is all over it. Wait for the new master.
Great photo! Nice fountain. Bad master cylinder.
gm is all over it. Wait for the new master.
Agreed GM. I think we have kicked this dead horse enough.
Hmmm, reminds me of changing grandson's diaper. (I had all daughters.)
But the good news is that you know a lot more about master cylinders than any of us ever wanted to know..
Such is the way of Old Jeeps.
Thanks for educating us.
Last edited by LarrBeard; 09-05-2023 at 05:27 PM.
I'm usually quick with humor, but missed this one at first read. Absolutely hysterical!! I had a son and a daughter, so I can relate.Originally Posted by LarrBeard
The new master came in today and I will get on it this weekend. In the meantime, I worked on the t-case. It had a lot of rust all around the housing and I managed to remove most of it with a wire wheel. I'd like to remove the remainder with a sandblaster and throw some paint on it. I will have to cover all exposed areas so the sand won't get in it, but if anyone has a thought to achieve the same thing without the risk of sand getting inside, please advise.
IMG_2641.jpg
There is also this plastic plug on side which I have yet to figure out.
IMG_2642.jpg
That is for a ball that screws into the threaded hole that your clutch arm pivots on I believe, but the Masters will get on and verify for sure!!!
My far and away most favorite method of removing rust and old paint from any metal surface is the nylon abrasive brushes that Horrible Freight sells. I use them on all hard surfaces, and they work fantastic. They will remove any amount of paint and even body filler without damaging the surface of the metal. The brushes are cheap, and last a long time compared to steel wire brushes, plus you do not get impaled by wires when using. All you need is a 3/8" variable speed drill and some time.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-8...ank-60325.html
I personally am not a fan of sand blasting due to the mess, and the adverse effects it has on the metal. Depending on the media used, the metal can be peened and distorted with the heat created during the shot beating on the metal. The brushes do not heat the metal, so you do not have to worry about metal distortion. The mess is created is just the paint or rust being turned to dust. Paint prep is also a breeze. After you blow off the surface with compressed air, and clean the surface with a prep-sol, you can immediately use an epoxy primer to seal the surface to prevent flash rusting.
Davide, I'm working on a CJ5 myself and have encountered similar problems/questions. Rather than try to get every last bit of rust off of any component, I use the Harbor Freight abrasive brushes to get most everything off, much like your TC that you show. Then, since I'm going to paint it anyways, I use a rust converting product that converts the rust and acts as a primer for painting. I use a product called Corroseal from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Corroseal-Wat...71&sr=8-3&th=1
It seems expensive, but a little bit goes a long ways. I just brush it on and by the next day, you're ready to paint and no worries about rust continuing. And, you don't have to sand blast anything. It works for me.
Thanks all for the feedback!
I'll be offline for a bit while I am out of state dealing with my Dad's failing health.
Best wishes and prayers to your Father from all of us here.
I figured it was time to get back to the group after dealing with my Dad. Long story short, I helped my Dad out as best I could. I got him into assisted living and started getting his house cleaned up. His health seemed to be improving until he had a stroke and eventually ended up in hospice care. Not longer after that, he did pass. I was there with him for most of the time and up until the end. I wanted to thank all of you for your well wishes and prayers.
I did manage to get a couple things done the short times I was back home. A brief outline for now and I will go into much more detail (with pics) later.
KW did send me a new master cylinder (thanks guys) and I did install it. At the same time, I did discover why I was seeing so much fluid coming from the vent hole in the cap (details later). Everything was bled and I was not seeing fluid exit the cap vent. However, my new brake light switch wasn't activating the brake lights. I removed the switch and tested it. I connected a multimeter to the posts and inserted a wooden dowel to press on the inner switch (which is activated by the pressure of the brake fluid). I got nothing on the DMM, not continuity, no resistance.
I took the switch to the parts store and we tested the other switches they had in stock and found that they all functioned the same way (no continuity, no resistance). I had a hard time believing that they could all be defective. I contacted the manufacturer (Standard) and asked their testing group what the PSI requirement was. They did get back to me and said it was ~60 PSI. I haven't done anything since then, as I am just now getting back to be able to, but I was curious about any ones thoughts on this.
I also finished cleaning up the t-case and got a good coat of primer on it.
The polar vortex we all had this past week has kept me indoor, but I should be able to continue later this week with where I left off. I still have to deal with my Dad's property and probate, but I have most of the ball rolling on that for the time being. I look forward to chatting with you all again!!
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