I think I've figured out that the cable I have is not correct. Neither is my cane description, I have a t-handle.
I still have no idea how/where the t-handle mounts. Is there a separate bracket under the dash that it mounts to? I hope not, it's probably made of unobtainium.
The CJ5s used the style that you are showing, the twist lock handle that mounts up under the dash lip. The spring that mounts from the frame ear directly behind the transfer case to the parking brake will keep constant pressure on the cable, ensuring that the cable does not disengage from either the handle or the brake actuator clevis. The links are specific to the CJ5. Jeepsterman has a diagram with both the transmission brake assy. and the wheel parking brake assy. pictured.
Thanks GM. I am 100% dialed in on how everything hooks up on the t-case end. I've even seen more cable routing pics on the ECJ5 forum too. I have yet to find any pics of the t-handle attached to the lower lip of the dash panel. I looked all along both sides of the steering column and nothing makes sense. That lip on the bottom of the panel looks weak and I would think that there would be some kind of support bracket for both ends of the t-handle assembly. Maybe there aren't any, I don't know. I'll keep looking, take my angle mirror out and see if it helps. Thanks again for your patience and help!
Not sure if this will help, my cj5 has a cane style handle.(I'm assuming that is because it's early in production) But it just bolts right on the bottom of the dash panel. It has a separate plate between the dash and the handle, but I think that's just because of the why the early handle is. I would say yours looks complete, and just bolt it to the dash. The dash panel is more robust than you'd think. Then it also bolts to the firewall where the cable comes through.
Eureka!! Thanks 56willys (and of course everybody else).
I don't have the bracket for the firewall mount, but see exactly where mine bolted up to the bottom of the dash now. It's been driving me nuts this past week. Time to get the right cable and as Larry the Cable Guy says, get er done.
Today I wanted to torque the transfer case input gear on to the T-86 output shaft. The spec is between 130-170 ft/lbs. I tried to keep the gears from turning while torquing the nut and put a strap wrench around the gear. That didn't work too well. Is the best way to do this after I get the transmission back in? I'm assuming the engine compression will be sufficient. IMG_3810.jpg
The easiest way is to shift the transmission into two gears at once. With the cover off the transmission, engage first or reverse, and also second or third gears at the same time. This will lock the transmission up solid. The engine compression might not be enough, just be sure you have the transmission in low gear if you try it that way. It is very difficult to drive the gear reduction backwards.
Have I ever mentioned how awesome and brilliant you are! I made the changes you suggested and the main shaft does not turn. Before I finish the torque, can you verify that the gears look to be where they should be. I noted the direction each gear moved (vertical arrows) and where they sit now (horizontal arrow). IMG_3811.jpg
Also, the crown nut looks to be further down the shaft than expected. I don't expect the nut to turn much more to get within the spec range and the hole aligned on the crown nut. Does this look like it is too far down? I do have the washer between the output gear and the nut. IMG_3813.jpg
Thanks David but, even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes! Now if you could just convince my wife....
From what you have illustrated, it looks to be in third and first. That will lock it up so you can torque it. The torque spec varies to hopefully get the "holes" to line up for the cotter key. You start with the low number and as soon as the holes line up you stop. I agree it does look a little deep. The variance of all the parts however, could put it where you are. If you are sure the washer and most important the bearing spacer are in there, I think your good. The test is simple. When you have it torqued up does it spin and shift, and spin smoothly in each gear position? Will the cotter key lock the nut from backing out? If all is functioning you did good man!
Today I started putting the e-brake assembly back together and ran into something odd that I wanted to follow up on. I noticed that the locking nut on my link rod was missing. No big deal. I didn't have the nut size in my vast selection of miscellaneous nuts (which was surprising) and headed to Home Depot. They didn't have it either and I could not match the thread size up to anything (SAE or metric). The nut diameter was smaller than a 1/4" and larger than a #10, so I focused on #12 nuts and saw that a thread pitch of 24 was all they carried. When I got home and took my pitch gauge out, I found that it was 28. Does that seem right, the nut is a #12-28? IMG_3824.jpg
On a good note, I did get the nut torqued on the T-86AA and did a quick mate test of the transmission and t-case. I'll bolt the transmission back up the to the bell housing tomorrow. IMG_3826.jpgIMG_3822.jpg
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