Hot mess, a 1967 CJ-5 restoration

[bmorgil]

That is an odd size but, anything is possible. Here is a link to the machining dimensions.

https://www.machiningdoctor.com/threadinfo/?tid=24

The trans/transfer looks like new!

[davide]

Grainger and the like have that size, but I don't need a bag of 50. I'm off to buy a tap and will see how that goes.

[davide]

I ended up getting a bag of 100 from Grainger. I have 99 left and have no problem in helping anyone out should they need one of these oddball sized nuts.
IMG_3831.jpg

[bmorgil]

Oh well David, the that happens to me all the time. I have many examples, I do not know where they are or what I have! All we have to do is remember you have them if we need them! Thanks David. That looks really good. Just like new.

[davide]

In my futile attempt to keep up with the Jones' (aka Hudakaguy), I did get the T-86AA and crossmember back in.
IMG_3843_rot.jpg IMG_3841.jpg
The e-brake is all done and I torqued the output shaft nut down. After doing that, I noticed a significant amount of drag when rotating the e-brake drum. Much more than I expected and think that maybe I applied too much torque. I could not find a spec in either manual I have and asked Google. The answer given was 150-200 Ft/lbs. Is that too much? Note that the shaft does not have a hole in it or use a crown nut.
IMG_3844.jpg

[bmorgil]

That is a tough spec to find specifically. 120 to 150 ft. lbs. is the number I always use based on the thread and material. It is basically the same as the pinion on the front. The torque of the nut should not change the rotating force of the drum. It sounds like the shoes might need to be adjusted out a bit.

[davide]

The adjusters are set all the way in and the gap looks good between the shoes and drum. I realize that I will get a bit of rubbing on the new shoes assuming that the drum is not perfectly round. There didn't look to be any binding on the backing plate or other parts either. I wanted to take the drum off and look, but didn't have a yoke puller that worked. That will be arriving sometime tomorrow. Maybe I'll see something and maybe I won't, but I'll feel better knowing I looked again.

[bmorgil]

For sure David, I would definitely take a look. As you loosen the nut, note when the drum starts to rotate easier.

[gmwillys]

I know when I did the Heep's parking brake, I assembled it and took it apart a couple of times to ensure everything was the way it should be. With the adjuster all the way in, the shoes did drag a bit in a couple of places on the drum because of the drum being original, and out of round. The 200 ft/lbs. is a bit over the top, but the 150 that Bmorgil is suggesting should help if that is where the interference lays. Before disassembling, I would turn the drum several times to apply witness marks to where the rub is occurring.

[bmorgil]

The drum is not held on by the output nut. The drum is attached to the yoke. The yoke when installed buts up against the speedometer gear and clamps it against the output bearing. The torque you are applying to the nut should not effect the rotating force of the drum unless, the drum when fully installed is hitting something. There is a gremlin in there.