Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 52

Thread: Gizzard's M38A1 Restoration

  1. #21
    Member Gizzard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Pin Oak Farms, Texas
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    Gizzard:
    . ......... Just get a good spot weld cutter. .

    Thanks again for the info guys.

    Is there one type that is better than others? Source?
    '

  2. #22
    Member Gizzard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Pin Oak Farms, Texas
    Posts
    32
    Original wheels were stolen before I acquired the jeep so a set of torched out misfits with may-pops were fitted to get it home.....trash now

    Been on the hunt for a set......Which wheels were original?

  3. #23
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,977
    "Is there one type that is better than others? Source?"

    Google "Spot weld cutter". Horrible Freight has one, Amazon has a number of sets with replaceable double-ended cutter blades as well as a special drill bit.

    Snap-On tools has a number of different size spot weld drills, but you pay Snap-On prices.

    You pays your money - you takes your choice ... in the end you pay the price.

    By the way - nice Avatar

  4. #24
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,798
    The original wheels were Kelsey Hayes 16" X 4 1/2". The link listed is pretty darn close to the military spec wheels from what I can tell from the picture, even though they are called out as civilian. The photo bellow shows some original wheels with the date code of 1953 on a couple of the tires, so they were a good example of the original issue wheels. Don't be persuaded into wasting money on M151 MUTT wheels. Yes they have the same bolt pattern, but the center is not large enough for the center hub on the front axle. Plus the offset is different, thus tucking the tires danger close to the rear inner fender wells. the second photo shows the M151 wheel on the rear for a rolling frame. Then another A1 with the tires mounted on the rear.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steel-c...71-jeep-willys

    I've used spot weld cutters by all different makers. The expensive cutters work just as well as the cheap HF versions. The M38A1 required both the cutters I bought from Woodward for around $40.00. The Harbor Freight ones were around $7.00 per. All I know, they make the job so much easier.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #25
    Member Gizzard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Pin Oak Farms, Texas
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    The original wheels were Kelsey Hayes 16" X 4 1/2". The link listed is pretty darn close to the military spec wheels from what I can tell from the picture, even though they are called out as civilian.

    https://www.kaiserwillys.com/steel-c...71-jeep-willys
    Yes, I was scared away from those wheels while viewing them on the Kaiser site because of the civilian designation listed. If those are indeed a match to the original wheels then I'm onboard.

    Good info on the weld cutter. I like good tools....buy once cry once, but I have many Harbor freight tools that do the same job as snap-ons. I'll check um out.

    The Avatar is fitting I thought.....My handle Gizzard is actually the name of my little 16 year old male chihuahua that sits in my lap all the time....grouchy little bastid

  6. #26
    Member Gizzard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Pin Oak Farms, Texas
    Posts
    32
    Question of the day: Repair or replace?

    Rear spring hangers are all oblong and wallered out. (Front hangers look OK)

    Weld up and re-drill? or cut the hangers off and replace including new rivets and the whole shebang?

    Was planning to cut out and replace shackle hanger bushings for sure.

    IMG_2261.jpg

    IMG_2262.jpg

    IMG_2264.jpg

  7. #27
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,977

    Spring Bushings

    If you are comfortable with welding and drilling, I'd try that first. If it doesn't work, you can still cut them off - but weld/drill seems to be less work (at least at first glance...).

    Here's what my spring bushings looked like ... pretty common thing to replace.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #28
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,037
    I like your plan gizzard.

  9. #29
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,798
    I would weld up and re-drill.

  10. #30
    Member Gizzard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2021
    Location
    Pin Oak Farms, Texas
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    I would weld up and re-drill.
    Yes, thx for the input guys......gonna weld her. Besides that will give me a chance to try out my new rotacut bit

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •