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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #301
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    My drums did not have the holes for the feeler gauges. Some do and some don't have those slots. With those its the old "adjust them till they just start to drag and back them off just a touch" method 56willys describes below. You should hear the shoe just scrape the drum every now and then. You will have to do this with each adjuster. Follow the same sequence as if you had the feeler gauge slots. Make sure you set the brakes by stomping on the pedal hard prior to starting your adjustments.

    I prefer to use this method myself. Like 56willys, I have always adjusted drums for a very slight drag. The drum should spin freely by hand but, I like to "hear" the shoes touch. Setting up drums with feeler gauges always left me with a little too much pedal.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 02-13-2024 at 01:09 PM.

  2. #302
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    Thanks for the additional comments, Bmorgil. That is exactly what I intend to do to adjust the brakes. I've done a lot of brakes in my time and remember setting them up just as you and 56willys describe. I'm sure they won't be such a breeze, but compared to other things I've encountered on this Jeep, I don't think it will be too bad. I'm just getting them close for now, since I haven't reinstalled the rebuilt Master Cylinder yet or the brake lines. I want to get the front brakes closed up, put the cover on the differential, fill it with oil, and then start putting the steering back together. The Master Cylinder will need to go in at the same time. Once I have all of that completed, then I'll feel comfortable to drop the engine back in. However, I'll probably wait on the engine until I get the transmission and transfer case taken care of. So, there is still a ton to do. But, you guys know what they say about eating an elephant, right?

  3. #303
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    You are correct, one bite at a time.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 02-14-2024 at 12:20 AM.

  4. #304
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    I've got another question or concern. I'm installing the front axle shafts. All is good as far as I can tell. However, when I install the shafts, both right and left and insert them as far as they will go, when I turn the shaft, the ring gear in the diff does not rotate. When I turn the pinion shaft, where the drive shaft connects, by hand, the axle shafts on both sides rotate. Do I have something wrong? Shouldn't the ring gear rotate when the axle shafts are rotated?

  5. #305
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    Also, on the seal that is inserted in the brake drum, should it be driven completely in until it bottoms out on the bearing or just far enough in so it sits flush with the lip of the drum?

  6. #306
    Senior Member 56willys's Avatar
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    Just making something clear, I'm probably wrong here, but here's my 2 cents.

    Assuming you have an open diff. I'm trying to think, if both wheels are off the ground. When turning one wheel the driveshaft won't turn. Because of the spider gears. If you block one wheel and turn the other it will turn the drive shaft. If you don't have a locker, power goes to the least resistance. Since there's no resistance theres no power.

    Maybe that's your problem?? Like I said my 2 cents (Probably not worth 1 cent) not a gear expert here.

  7. #307
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    All over it 56' those are the facts! Indeed test1238, it sounds like an open differential behaving as it was designed. I attached 3 links below that are surely more information than anyone wants! The first two are the engineering theory. The last one is a guy messing with a differential on the floor. If you have the time and want to see whats going on, these videos should help. They are fairly short videos.

    The seal is driven into the brake drum until it is flush with the drum. As long as the seal lip is riding on the seal surface of the axle shaft, and the seal case is not protruding from the drum, it is in the right spot. Drive it into the drum until its flush.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOgoejxzF8c

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeLm7wHvdxQ

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-VvLw7pjk0
    Last edited by bmorgil; 02-25-2024 at 07:33 AM.

  8. #308
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    Thanks, guys. I hadn't thought about it being an open differential. That makes perfect sense. I was just watching a video where the ring gear was shown rotating and didn't pay attention to what the other side was doing.

    Also, thanks for the info on the seal. I put it too far in and thought it didn't look right, so I'm glad I caught it beforehand.

  9. #309
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    Well, I'm still making progress on the Jeep, but seem to run into roadblocks at every turn. I successfully got the brakes adjusted on both sides and went to put on the old Warn locking hubs that I rebuilt. However, it was then that I realized that the head of one of the bolts was stripped, so tightening that one just wasn't happening. I also realized that I needed the locking tab washers for the hubs as well as the small OD 3/8" washers since a few had disappeared. So, I'm waiting on parts from KW and Amazon. I'll pick the bolt up at the hardware store.

    So I'm now at the crossroads of deciding if I want/need to take the tub off the frame. I think that might make any body work a little easier as well as any mechanical work still to be done. But...if I take it off, I'll have to find a spot to set the hardtop as well as the body for a while and that presents other issues such as storage and where.

    One other question I have for you on the transmission and transfer case removal. Any tips? I assume that it would be best to put a jack under them and then bring both down still attached to the cross member? Can I remove the bell housing first to make it lighter and easier to get out from under the vehicle? From what I can see in the diagram, nothing terrible would happen if I removed the bell housing. Doesn't look like there is anything there to worry about from doing that.

    Thanks!

  10. #310
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by test1328 View Post
    One other question I have for you on the transmission and transfer case removal. Any tips? I assume that it would be best to put a jack under them and then bring both down still attached to the cross member? Can I remove the bell housing first to make it lighter and easier to get out from under the vehicle? From what I can see in the diagram, nothing terrible would happen if I removed the bell housing. Doesn't look like there is anything there to worry about from doing that
    We have discussed this in a few posts, most of us feel it is best and easiest to remove the transmission from the bell housing with the transfer case and cross member as a unit. The only trick is to get it high enough in the air that the assembly will roll out from underneath the vehicle.

    I would leave the bell housing on the engine. The bell housing is easier to remove with the engine out, but it is not too bad once the transmission is out either. No mater what you do, support the engine in the rear. There rear motor mount is on the cross member. If you don't support the back of the engine it will stress the front motor mount rubber and the back of the motor will most likely tilt back and hit the firewall. If it does, on the L head it will crush the throttle linkage bracket.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-04-2024 at 05:09 PM.

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