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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #251
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    Thanks for the reply bmorgil! Of course I found that thread on the tool in the Tech notes after I posted. I'll have to try to put something together like you suggest.

  2. #252
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    Another quick question on the Dana 25 front diff:
    I noticed, while cleaning up the outside of the differential housing, that the threaded holes for the carrier bolts are drilled through the housing. I would suppose that the upper holes are above the oil level but I would imagine that the lower holes are below the oil level. I also read in the Tech Library about the proper torque level for these bolts (45-50 ft. lb.) and it says don't use any oil or sealant. So, my question is, after I torque down these carrier bolts, should I add any sealant to the outside hole to help seal in the oil? Maybe that isn't necessary? Thanks!

  3. #253
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Nice catch test1328! I just went back and clarified that in the Tech Section.

    The cap bolts go through the housing on the model 25, they need sealant. Make sure it is a non hardening.

  4. #254
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    Well, back to the drawing board...

    Tried to install the inner oil seals in the Dana 25 this weekend. I thought of putting my own tool together to do this but after pricing out the washers, threaded rod, etc. needed to do the job, I figured I'd be money and time ahead by purchasing one of the systems off of Amazon as shown below in bmorgil's post. Well, that didn't work out too well. I had a very hard time getting them started straight and each time I thought they were going in and then started pressing them in, I found that they pulled to one side and went in crooked. I ended up ruining both seals that I had. So, I guess I'll start over and try again.

    I ordered more seals today, two of the newer style and two of the NOS older style. I'm curious to see what the diameter of each style measures to see if there is any difference. This is a case where 0.001 in. could make all the difference, I think.

    By the way, does anyone have an opinion on whether the new style seal (with rubber) or the old style seal (leather?) is better?

    My intention is to use whichever seal seems to fit better. I'm also going to try to drive the seal in through the axle tube instead of trying to press it in with the tool.

  5. #255
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    On a separate note, I've been cleaning the frame and axle tubes and anything and everything I encounter during this work and cleaning it up, removing all grease, dirt, etc. Once clean, I'm using those Harbor Freight Nylon brush wheels to remove what rust I can (mostly light surface rust). Then I'm using a product called Corroseal that converts any rust and primes the metal. Then I''m spray painting everything. The Corroseal works quite well and even though it is expensive, a little goes a long way. I would imagine that the gallon jug I bought will do this entire Jeep.

    But, the significant thing I recently found was the actual serial number stamped into the frame on top of the passenger side rail, just in front of where the body tub rests. So, I now have definitive proof that the body and frame have matching numbers. Cool!

  6. #256
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    "By the way, does anyone have an opinion on whether the new style seal (with rubber) or the old style seal (leather?) is better?"

    Opinions are like armpits around here - every one has a couple and some of them ...

    When I put the truck back together, I put leather seals in the rear axles. Both failed within a couple of months and made a mess in the brakes.

    When we pulled the leather seals out, the "old guy" who was helping me said;" Heck, these are Chicago Leather seals. They went out of business about 1960, no wonder they were dried out".

    He may or may not have been right, but I would suggest the modern seals over the older leather. If the leather are "NOS" seals, they may be at the end of their shelf life. O-rings have shelf life dates on them even if they are hermetically packed in dessicated foil envelopes.

    My free opinon and worth everything you pay for it.

    Great work!

  7. #257
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Definitely use the new technology. There really isn't any comparison. The modern seals are way better. As Larry is eluding to, always try to stick to new sealed up inventory if you can.

    Great news on the serial number. I am going to check out that rust converter.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-27-2023 at 03:25 PM.

  8. #258
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    Thanks, guys, for your opinions. I'd rather rely on people who have direct knowledge of the job and the parts that I'm talking about than rely on my own bias. Thanks, Larbeard! Your experience with such a seal failing early on your truck warns me of just what I was worried about. The new rubber seals that I messed up do seem to fit quite nicely on the axle shafts, so I know that part is good. I suspect that they are a bit larger in diameter than the old style which is why I had such a time with getting them in the first go around. I suppose my measurements will tell the tale.

    In trying to figure out a better way to press these seals in, I tried fitting a socket into the seal. I did find one that had the right OD, but then the ID of the socket hit portions of the rubber seal and made me worry about damaging that rubber as I put it in. However, I did happen to come up with a Schedule 40 PVC pipe that I had on hand that fits almost perfectly. The OD of the PVC fits inside the seal and the ID is large enough that it doesn't touch the rubber portion of the seal. I figure I'll put that in the seal, place a seal driver on that, and then tap the seal into place through the axle tubes. Hopefully that works better than the first method. If it works, I'll provide the size of PVC pipe on here so others might benefit from that suggestion.

  9. #259
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    bmorgil, that Corroseal rust converter is really pretty neat stuff. I investigated a whole bunch of different ones before I chose this. In its liquid state, it appears to be an off-white, milky white, color. When you put it on the metal, when it converts the rust, it turns it black. Areas that aren't rusted it gives it just a shade of black, but you can see through it to the metal below. So, it still primes the metal, but doesn't obviously do any converting of rust. It seems to be pretty tenacious since any drops that end up on the floor or workbench are pretty difficult to remove. It definitely doesn't like to come off of clothes. With a nice chip and impact resistant paint over the top, I figure the metal should withstand quite a bit, at least for a while until it gets beat up again.

  10. #260
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by test1328 View Post
    I figure I'll put that in the seal, place a seal driver on that, and then tap the seal into place through the axle tubes. Hopefully that works better than the first method. If it works, I'll provide the size of PVC pipe on here so others might benefit from that suggestion.
    Dont try to drive the seal in from the axle tube.

    Driving the seal in through the axle tube without damaging the seal guide pressed into the tube is nearly impossible. That is why the tool is used. There is a seal guide in the axle tube next to the carrier bearings, that guides the splines of the axle over the lip of the seal without cutting it. It has an opening sized to let the shaft through without cutting the seal. The seal guide cannot be purchased separately. If you damage it, it will not function properly. If the axle splines drag across the seal when installed, it will cut the seal lip and it will leak. A big issue in warranty, hence the seal guide.

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