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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #111
    Thanks for everyone's thoughts on including the distributor with the engine for the rebuild. I'll be sure to do that. Much appreciated.

  2. #112
    I hate to keep asking questions, but I really do appreciate everyone's knowledge and expertise here. The information in invaluable. Don't know where else I would even dream of finding this information.

    For the engine rebuild, I intend to have a new clutch installed and intend to buy one once I pull the engine and can confirm what size it needs to be. The engine builder will include the new clutch when he balances the engine. But that got me wondering again about what other parts on the engine I should be sure to tell the engine guy to be sure to replace. I'm sure he knows more than me on what might be able to be re-used and what absolutely should be replaced, but I'd like to be able to confirm that with him when I drop it off. So, can you tell me what other parts I should be sure to replace now, while they are working on it?

  3. #113
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I would send the distributor here: http://www.willysdistributors.com/ Your engine guy should be able to tell you what you need as he goes. Peripherals like the starter, alternator, distributor and carburetor should all be new or rebuilt or checked out to be sure they are as good as your new engine. The water pump and the fuel pump should be replaced. The oil pump needs to be disassembled and checked out by your engine builder. The gasket is a paper shim and is very difficult to find. I had to make mine. I have a ton of gasket shim if anyone needs some PM me. It comes in several foot rolls. It sets the clearance for the pump. Because of this it is often favorable to buy a new Melling pump https://www.melling.com/parts-lookup/. If I had it to do over again I would do just that!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-06-2021 at 04:54 PM.

  4. #114
    Thanks for the info and links. Much appreciated.

  5. #115
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    BMorgil: You suggested:

    https://www.melling.com/parts-lookup/.

    I'm not in the market for a pump, but what sets these folks apart as a pump supplier? You seem to know where to find the good stuff .....

  6. #116
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Melling was and still is the go to for engine oil pumps in a stock pump application. They supplied the majority if not all of the O.E's in the US car manufacturing market in the 40's, 50's 60's 70's, and even the 80's. They still supply a great deal of oil pumps to the industry. They are probably the only supplier making the older pumps anymore for replacement in the aftermarket. We used to buy their oil pumps for our engine parts program. They usually offer a high volume/pressure HP option.

  7. #117
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    You know all of that good stuff - that's why "you da' man"

  8. #118
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    One thing I would suggest, do not balance the clutch assembly with the rotating engine assembly (crank, pistons and rods). The flywheel should have a neutral balance and the clutch should also be neutral balanced. They will not be perfect of course and you could balance all of them together with the rotating assembly and make it all perfect. If you ever have to change the clutch or flywheel however, the balance could now be thrown off. Most engine builders will zero out the rotating assembly and have the clutch and flywheel balanced separately and independent of each other. It is not uncommon to fry a clutch and ruin a flywheel. As long as you have a good neutral balance on the new clutch and flywheel you are all set. You can always get the clutch or flywheel balanced, it is a lot tougher to redo the crank!

  9. #119
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Great advice to live by Bmorgil!

  10. #120
    Thanks! Once again, great info for a newbie.

    I'm picking up an engine hoist from a friend tomorrow and then I should be ready to pull the engine after I take out the last remaining bell housing bolts. Then I'll need to load it into my truck and get it down to the shop.

    Any advice or things to look out for when setting the engine in the truck? Does it need to stay upright or can it be placed on its side (provided it is blocked up so nothing sticking out get bent or damaged)? I'll of course strap it down so it can't move.

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