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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #121
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I like to throw together a wood skid that the engine sits down into, keeping it upright. Then strap it down to prevent sliding around when that jerk pulls out in front of you, and you have to slam on the brakes.....Been there and had it happen. Just for reference a 727 Chrysler transmission tail shaft puts a perfect hole in the front of a Chevy 2500 bed when only held in place by a load bar and gravity.

    The steel skid plate a fixed to the oil pan will give the engine a steady base, then strap it down to keep it secure, but I do not know for sure if the later 134 engines still have the skid plate like the earlier models did. Just use more straps then you think you may need.

  2. #122
    OK. Sounds good. Yes, this 134 engine does have the fixed skid plate on the oil pan. I'll fab up some blocking to support the engine to keep it upright as you suggest.

    Thanks!

  3. #123
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Engine Blocking

    Kind of like this works ...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #124
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    That would be perfect Larry!

  5. #125
    Looks good to me!

  6. #126
    I've been debating about whether to start a new thread on this project since we've kind of gotten through the restart info and what needs to be done to remove the engine...what do you think? Should I start a new one on the rebuilding process or keep everything on this same, original thread?

  7. #127
    I am happy to report that I have successfully removed the engine!

    Engine removed.jpg

    Now I have more questions, of course!

    I want to get a new clutch to install. On the Kaiser Willys website they show a clutch kit for an 8 1/2" and one for a 9 1/4". I'm not sure where I actually measure to know which one I had. I measured the metallic ring inside the triangular looking outer part (pressure plate?) and I came up with about 9" as close as I can measure. Here are some pictures.

    clutch.jpg
    clutch 2.jpg
    clutch 3.jpg
    clutch 4.jpg

    I think I should probably go with the 8 1/2", right?

    Also, it looks like this is the original clutch? Do you agree? You don't see any value in trying to keep all the parts and reusing them, do you?

    What about buying the whole 7 piece clutch kit vs. the 3 piece kit? The difference in price is only $25, so the price doesn't make much difference. Any recommendations?

  8. #128
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Keep the original thread - it's kind of like home now and we know where to find you.

  9. #129
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Yayyyy ...

    "Auburn Clutch Company, Auburn, IN".

    About 20 minutes north of Ft. Wayne.

    https://willennar.pastperfectonline....6-203876836372

    Another northeast Indiana industry that doesn't exist any longer. It went from an independently owned company, then bought by Dana and then Eaton. It closed in 2021

    https://www.fwbusiness.com/fwbusines...0552eaaf2.html

    I'd keep the "Auburn Clutch Co." pieces just for the history of them....

  10. #130
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    The 8 1/2" clutch is what you need. The measurement comes from the actual clutch disk itself, (the friction material that engages the flywheel). The clutch does look to be original from my vantage point. One thing to keep in mind though, the clutch lining material is made from asbestos, so don't blow out the bell housing with compressed air, or eat a sandwich while working on it. I would absolutely purchase the 7 piece kit, you'll thank yourself later when you put it all back together because then you'll have all your pieces there to make new. I would recommend that you take the fly wheel to your local machine shop to true the clutch surface, so you new clutch will seat the most effectively.

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