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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #151
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    If I did lube those parts I would use some kind of dry lube. Oil and/or grease attracts dirt which will wear those parts out faster.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  2. #152
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    I've never seen any lube instructions for a carburetor....

    Places where a shaft goes through a sleeve or bushing could take a dob of grease - but there is enough gas around the carb that just about anything will get washed away in fairly short order.

  3. #153
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I've had some carbs that were pretty crusty. I use PB Blaster on sticky spots, and throttle shaft. No harm would come if some ends up down the carb.

  4. #154
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    A light oiling on moving parts like the throttle shaft wouldn't hurt, but as Larry points out its not required. I wouldn't put a lot of lube anywhere as it can gum up and collect dirt. Like Larry said lube isn't going to stick around long anywhere there is gas. The highest wear point on the carb is the throttle shaft. Because of this it is running on bushings that though they will eventually wear, don't require lubrication. Clean is the best thing you can do. Dirt leads to abrasion and abrasion leads to wear. If the carb is already crusty, PB Blaster or similar products can keep you going like gm stated.

  5. #155
    Much appreciated input, guys. I've never seen anything talking about lube for the carburetor either, but with my carb rebuild, a lot of the parts that move feel dry. I know gas will lubricate some of these locations, but not all, so was just a thought running through my head. Thanks again.

  6. #156
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    It was a good question, honestly asked and answered. Now a whole bunch of us know a little more about Jeeps. That's how we learn.

  7. #157
    Finally got the carburetor rebuilt and back together. Here is a before and some after photos. Took me until I was almost done with it to realize it was a 938SD. I would have thought it would be more prominently marked and was looking in the obvious locations. Now I know!

    Also, a few other notes: Some of the new parts included in the kit were quite a bit different from the originals. Fortunately, all of the old parts looked pretty good, so on the ones that were significantly different, I just reused the old parts. The rubber on the accelerator pump still looked OK, but I went ahead and used the new one even though the spring keeper locations on the primary shaft were in slightly different locations. The check they tell you to do for the accelerator pump adjustment came out just fine, so I believe I should be OK. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have trouble and have to take this apart again!

    Before
    Before.jpg

    After
    After.jpg

    After2.jpg

    After3.jpg
    Last edited by test1328; 01-31-2022 at 06:03 PM.

  8. #158
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Looks just right! I don't think you would have any trouble going after it again.

  9. #159
    Hey guys, been a while!
    I've slowly been going through things and am working on the steering now. The gear box seems to be leaking so I thought I would take that out and put a new seal on it. The steering has always been pretty good, so I don't anticipate there being too much wrong, but figured I'd find out in any case. I took the steering drag link apart and cleaned everything up and there were no problems that I could see there. I think all is good, although I would like to get new dust covers, front and back. I don't see that Kaiser Willys sells just the dust covers. Does anyone know if you can buy just the dust covers from them? I don't think I need to buy the whole repair kit and would hate to buy that just for the dust covers. Lemme know what you think?

    Second question is that in removing the gear box, do I really need to remove the steering wheel? Can't seem to get a straight answer from the videos on You Tube. Most of the videos show them removing the steering wheel, but then don't show the whole steering tube that the wheel attaches to coming out? Any guidance there? For what it is worth, I can't get the steering wheel off. I hate to buy a $90 steering wheel puller from KW that I'll use one time in my life. Any easy ways to get it off other than buy the puller? I know there is a bearing in there by the steering wheel so since I'm working on it, it would be nice to replace that bearing, thus trying to remove the steering wheel.

    Thanks!

  10. #160
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I don't think you can get just the dust covers. However they are soft plugs the same as used in engines. Take some measurements and head to the local old school parts store. They should be able to come up with the plugs you need. If you have an old one it will help tremendously at the parts counter.

    The steering wheel will need to come off. The shaft cover needs to be removed to get the box apart. You wont be able to get the assembly out of the vehicle. The bearing under the wheel usually needs at least a good dab of grease. It can be brutally difficult to remove especially if the horn button has been missing and water has been allowed to accumulate at the nut. The shaft can become one with the wheel hub. A lot of soaking with penetrating oil for many days might help. The pullers that support the wheel hub are essential. The wheel will crack if you put any stress anywhere other than directly under the hub. I had to cut mine off. No matter what it wasn't coming off. I have seen some people have good success and others like me not so much. I think gmwillys was able to pull a few. Maybe he has a trick.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 03-28-2022 at 07:34 AM.

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