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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #171
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    Thanks for the discussion, guys. I don't have ready access to dry ice, but I work a lot with Liquid Nitrogen and Liquid Helium, so if I wanted, I could use the LN2 to cool things down quite rapidly. The thought that runs through my head there is that the LN2 will inevitably get on the steering wheel hub and that cold, combined with a 60 year old plastic, the plastic could just split right before my eyes and ruin it before I start. But don't think the thought hasn't crossed my mind. I think I'll try the heat and cool and heat and wax method first and see what happens.

  2. #172
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    Well, I was ordering from KW anyways, so ordered their steering wheel puller and thought I would provide a report on it. Once I received it, I realized why it costs what it does. It is well fabricated, with welded parts that fit very well. The welds are not perfect by any means, but more than adequate and I suppose if the welds were great, the part would cost even more. Comes with a cap that threads onto the steering shaft, so that the center bolt of the puller can bear on the cap to react the load. I've been soaking the steering shaft with penetrating oil off and on for over a week in the hopes that it would help to remove it. Received the puller on Friday and finally had a chance to try it yesterday. Took me longer to put the puller together and get it wrapped around the steering tube than it did to actually remove the wheel. Slick as a whistle! I was fortunate that it wasn't really very rusty in there but it did really pop when it came loose, so I know there was quite a bit of force required to get it moving. And, I'm happy that I can reuse the original steering wheel, even though it has several cracks (gaps) on the spokes from shrinkage and CTE mismatch over the years. Those gaps in the spokes hold some memories for me, so I'd hate to lose those.

    In any case, I was then able to remove the steering gear box, so will tear into that a little later when I have a chance. I did read in one of the threads on here about the proper lube to use for the gear box. However, my question on that is, should I fill (pack) the box with the lube or just make sure everything is covered well? Also, does anyone have an idea of how much is required? Is just one bottle enough? Thanks!

  3. #173
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    Thanks for the review of the puller. It’s also good to hear you got the steering wheel off without damaging anything.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  4. #174
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I may need to invest in one of their pullers as well. Thank you for the review!

  5. #175
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Now we know where to go to borrow a steering wheel puller ...

  6. #176
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    Funny, that was what I was going to say! If anyone needs it, I'd be happy to let them borrow it. No sense in everyone buying one.

  7. #177
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Good news on the puller and the success. gmwillys repairs the cracks in the wheel. He has a great method.

    One bottle of lube fills the box. You fill it till it comes out of the fill hole.

    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ox-Lubrication

    https://www.ecklers.com/champion-00-...QaAlOeEALw_wcB

  8. #178
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    If you have separation in the plastic on your steering wheel, and wish to fix some,(some wheels hold family history and shouldn't be messed with). I use two part metal repair like JB Weld. Clean the gap and the steel ring as best you can. Form the epoxy to the shape of the gap, with a rough form of the finger contour on the back side. After it sets, sand it till it blends into the original plastic. I haven't found a forever paint or dye that will makes a wheel look 100 percent. But the wheel will look good for a while.
    Last edited by gmwillys; 04-04-2022 at 08:57 PM.

  9. #179
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    Thanks for the info, guys. Much appreciated. I ordered the lube. I haven't taken things apart yet, so not sure what all I'll find in the gear box, but I'm expecting it to be in pretty good shape. I appreciate the info on repairing the wheel as well, but I think I'll leave them there for nostalgia purposes.

    One other thing, just a question. When I removed the steering wheel, I of course found the spring and when that was removed, the snap or retaining ring below it was there, but it was loose. It was fairly easy to remove it. Should that ring be tighter and snap into place? What exactly is it holding? Thanks.

  10. #180
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    The snap ring is there to prevent the bearing from traveling down the shaft. It doesn't need to be tight but I would replace it. It is the stop for the bearing. The steering shaft and lever assembly end play is where they wear. If the steering shaft and lever assembly is worn (item 36 in service manual) at the high point, the center of travel to pad, the steering will always have a lot of play. This is the spot where the steering wheel is dead center and spends most of the time. When steering system and king pin bearings begin to get worn and sloppy and the wheel is wiggling back and forth, the centering high spot gets badly worn. It requires a new shaft to fix it but, well worth the effort if it is worn. Its the main reason for slop in the wheel right to left. You should check it before you disassemble it. The bushings may or may not need to be replaced and reamed. Usually they hold up much better than the centering point on the shaft.

    The box needs to be adjusted, shimmed and the bearings set. The service manual is a great resource for the procedure.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 04-05-2022 at 08:29 AM.

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