Page 3 of 10 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 96

Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #21
    Senior Member 5JeepsAz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Posts
    568
    This is terrific. Looking forward to the next thing as much as you are. Keep on...

  2. #22
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,191
    LarrBeard listens better than me. I thought you were putting fuel into the carb bowl and you were getting it going by pumping the gas. That would indicate the carb is getting fuel from the fuel pump.

    With all the thoughts in mind, you can try to fill the float bowl to check it out a little more thoroughly. Inject a few ounces of fuel into the carburetor bowl down the vent tube, prime the carb and see if it will run and fill the bowl from the pump. If it runs for a few minutes and runs out of fuel, the fuel pump probably isn't pumping sufficient fuel.

    1988 was a long time ago. I am thinking a carb rebuild and a fuel pump is inevitable, but I could be wrong!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-17-2021 at 07:20 AM.

  3. #23
    Thanks for the responses, guys. Bmorgil, that's what I'll try to do next. I'm afraid you're right about the carb rebuild and fuel pump. I'd just rather do that later, rather than sooner, and in my shop and not outside on the ground. But, it isn't that big of a deal if I have to do that. I'm looking forward to what I can find out this next weekend. Time is getting short up at 10,000 ft. elevation and I want to get this out of the yard before the snow flies!

  4. #24
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,032

    Another Great "Life Hack"

    "Inject a few ounces of fuel into the carburetor bowl down the vent tube, prime the carb and see if it will run and fill the bowl from the pump. If it runs for a few minutes and runs out of fuel, the fuel pump probably isn't pumping sufficient fuel.[/QUOTE]



    Wow, another great life hack from the Doc on how to do things. I'd never thought of doing it that way ...

  5. #25
    Here's the weekend update:

    I did what bmorgil suggested and filled the carb bowl with gas through the vent tube. I did this twice just to be sure. Each time, the engine would fire right up and run for maybe a minute at most and then die, no matter how many times I pumped the gas pedal. That told me that everything was good except that the pump wasn't pumping anything. Next, I removed the gas line from the carb and put a rubber hose on it to direct it into an old coffee can. Then I went to start the Jeep and pumped the gas pedal, etc. Then went and checked the can and it was bone dry. Not a drop of gas coming out. Remember that I flushed all of the gas lines from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the carb, so I know there are no obstructions in the lines (or at least there weren't at the time!). Therefore, I think the only logical conclusion is that the pump is not working. I have a new pump from KW coming so I'll try to get that changed next weekend and hope that solves the problem.

    I do need to see if I can figure out the brake problem, I suppose. I really hate to start tearing into them in it's current location, but having at least some brakes might be a good idea. I just have to figure out which wheel it is leaking from and then try to fix that one and hope I have at least some braking power after that. Then I'll be ready for transport!

  6. #26
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,191
    Good news 1328! I agree, the fuel pump is toast. The thing about the brake problem that I foresee is the inevitable "uh oh". You know like you find a leak and go to fix it, and then something else lets go and the leak grows, it begins to morph in to a "Kraken". I can just see a brake line twisting right off when you try to remove it.

    I am thinking a plan "B" might be to have a trailer or a cheap U-Haul rental dolly close by.

  7. #27
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,861
    If a wheel cylinder or line is leaking, crimp off that section, re-bleed and then move it to where you are able to fix the brakes correctly.

  8. #28
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,032
    "If a wheel cylinder or line is leaking, crimp off that section,.."

    I'd suggest that GMwilllys means crimp off either the front or rear brakes, not just the right front or left rear....

    Or for a move of 20 or 30 feet - just one might be OK ...

    You just need a little brake

  9. #29
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,861
    I will elaborate in my comment;

    If you have a wheel cylinder leak, and the line going to that cylinder are slated to be replaced, then I would crimp off just the wheel cylinder line. 75% braking is better than 50%. If the line going to the rear between the master cylinder and rear T at the rear end is leaking, crimp it shut. In this case 50% is better than 0%. If both your front and rear lines are leaking, then I would stay your course and band aid it together until you can safely move the Jeep where you can do your work. It isn't fun, it is an adventure trying to drive a new project home on a wing and a prayer. In High school, I bought a $50. '67 International 3/4 ton pickup. It only had one functioning front brake. Every time you had to stop, the rear end wanted to come around and lead for a while. These days I trailer everything.

  10. #30
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,191
    gm is correct a pair of vice grips and some good crimping could get three brakes or so working.

    There are a few ways to get it home to work on. One other way, the little jeeps don't weigh much and work quite well with a simple tow bar and a trailer hitch. I think you should get it where it is going to go into intensive care, by hook or crook. I however am too old to work on them in remote locations anymore! I need my "stuff" (coffee, air conditioning, heat and a lift). A U-Haul tow bar or Two Wheel Car Dolly and back to the garage for me. Lose one more line on the way home, with a one chamber brake master cylinder and things will get interesting. The emergency brake may not stop it fast enough if at all.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-24-2021 at 08:43 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •