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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #81
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Definitely need to get it in the air high enough to drop everything down and clear of the frame. The support for the rear of the engine needs to be suspended from the frame so you can lift the vehicle without disturbing the support for the rear of the motor. I use a heavy nylon cinch strap under the oil pan and around the frame and cinch it up tight. You can use chain or anything that allows you to support the rear of the engine.

    I sure do remember "bench pressing" my share of transmissions! I cannot do that anymore (I could but it would be the last time).
    Last edited by bmorgil; 10-07-2021 at 07:51 AM.

  2. #82
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    Jeff,
    The way I did mine was definitely get you a transmission jack, jack the rear end up and put it on jack stands with the rear tires about a foot off the floor and it should come right out.
    I took the transmission shift tower off and cut a piece of cardboard to cover the top of the tranny, the 2 transfer case shift levers have to come out as well. Now that is the tricky part. loosen the locking set screw that holds the shifter pin in and slide the pin out mind you it will not come clear out due to the tub is in the way but it should come out enough to get one lever off at a time then push it back in and you should be ready to drop her out then.
    I am like you guy's as far as bench pressing it, to old for that S""T anymore

  3. #83
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    I need to go look under my CJ3A. I don’t remember using anything to support the back of the motor when I pulled the transmission. It’s been sitting there untouched for quite a bit longer than my memory lasts.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  4. #84
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    If you don't support the back, it could break the motor mounts. Usually the block will tilt back and hit the firewall. That can smash the linkage bracket for the throttle.

  5. #85
    Thanks for the info everyone. I can't say I have a solid game plan at the present but that's what I'm trying to develop now. I'll at least try to explain how I think I wanted to approach things.

    First, I don't know exactly what all I will need to do to this vehicle. Ideally, it would be a full-restoration. But realistically, considering I have one kid in college and two more to go fairly soon, I don't think I can afford to to that. Therefore, I want to start on just what is needed to make the vehicle road worthy. The fact that I was able to get the engine started and get it moving again under its own power makes me think that there aren't a ton of major problems. The body definitely needs a lot of work to make it pristine, but maybe I don't need to do that right away. The hardtop also needs a lot of TLC, but again, that can wait. I'm not sure, but the body mounts might need replacing. Shocks need replacing. U-joints may need to be replaced.

    I think the engine is the biggest issue at present, so that is where I'd like to start. Once the engine is out, it should be easier to look at all the other major drive train components and fix things that I see. I know the brakes need a complete overhaul, but that is relatively simple stuff.

    So, for removing the engine, I would really like to avoid dropping the transmission and transfer case, if I can help it. I really don't think there is anything majorly wrong with those. Of course, I'll change the oil in them and replace gaskets if necessary, but hopefully no major rework. Therefore, my plan for removing the engine was going to be as follows:
    1. Drain radiator of coolant
    2. Drain engine oil
    3. Remove front grill, radiator, shroud
    4. Remove front fenders
    5. One piece at a time, start unbolting, removing, etc. all components from engine
    Here's where I'm a little sketchy on the details, so maybe this doesn't make much sense, so please let me know where I'm wrong or missing something.
    6. Underneath the vehicle, start removing clutch and brake linkages as necessary
    7. Supporting the transfer case/transmission, remove the cross-member (I'm not sure if I need to do this in order to unbolt the engine from the bell housing or not? If I don't need to do this, I probably won't. Maybe I can't reach the bolts without dropping the trans/transfer case some?)
    8. Unbolt bell housing from engine
    9. Unbolt engine from engine mounts
    10. Remove engine from engine bay

    Sounds simple, right??? HA!

  6. #86
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    T
    I don’t really think that if your taking the engine out through the front you more than likely won’t have to take the tranny/transfer case cross member out, bmorgil and gmwillys will have to chime in on this bc I’ve never removed a 4 banger from mine it was a V6 and when I did all my work the tub was off the frame so it was wide open.
    As far as the rest of the sequence you have described your pretty much spot on as far as the order goes except the clutch and brake assembly’s, if your not taking the tranny/transfer case out it will stay in place.
    The clutch throw out bearing stays right on the tranny input shaft and the brake stays with the transfer case.
    I’m thinking the clutch linkage pivots between the frame and the transfer case on 2 balls, another question for bmorgil and gmwillys.
    Like ALL projects it’s more of a trial,error and knuckle busting but mostly trial and error but you’ll get it I’m sure of that!!!
    And Simple yes
    That’s what makes you “Sick, Twisted and Obsessed”!!!!
    Welcome to the Club Buddy.
    Last edited by TJones; 10-08-2021 at 05:31 AM.

  7. #87
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes you can leave the transfercase/transmission cross member in. The bell housing stays in and bolted to the transmission. Unbolt it from the block. Follow your process it sounds good to me! TJ is correct the clutch linkage and brake will stay in place With the front fenders and grill off, you will find it a fairly easy procedure. With the front fenders off you will be in real good shape to clean up the "front end" of the Jeep. You can do an awfully lot with it striped down in front. It is a great idea. It will make it much easier to line up the input shaft of the transmission and the crankshaft pilot bushing when you nestle the rebuilt motor back in.

  8. #88
    Awesome! Thanks for the quick feedback, guys.

    Yeah, that's the plan, once the engine is out and being rebuilt, is to take care of what is accessible in front. Brakes, diff, and I also want to do some maintenance on the Ramsey PTO winch as well. Then, we'll look at the transmission and transfer case, get the fluids changed. And then move on to the rear end. I'm sure there will be lots of surprises in store.

  9. #89
    Just a quick update. I started checking into Engine shops/machine shops that could do the work. At bmorgil's suggestion, I did contact All Pro Automotive Machine located in Denver. After talking to Steve Lewis, who owns and runs the business, I'm convinced that he is the guy. He only does 1970 and older engines and just does custom work for people who are restoring/rebuilding engines. He and his son do all the work and everything is done in-house. He said he prefers that his customers not take anything apart and that way he knows what he has when he starts the work. He will do all cleaning, machining, new parts, etc. He will balance the engine and even told me to bring him the new clutch so he can include that in the balancing. The only bad thing (for me) is the expense, which will run me about $4K. But, I think that is pretty much where I was expecting the price to be. Steve seems like a good guy and was easy to talk to. Once I get the engine out, it will be headed his way.

  10. #90
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    That’s sounds like a heck of good price t, especially knowing he does it all in house and it’s only him and his son working on it.
    How long did he say he’d have it?

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