61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

[gmwillys]

PB Blaster or Kroil, a plumbers propane torch and many cycles, (lube, heat , lube, heat, repeat). apply heat to the steering wheel sleeve without melting the plastic of the steering wheel itself. A tip is to use several layers of aluminum foil as a heat barrier against the plastic of the wheel. Then for a puller, a bearing separator plate and a good two bolt puller works best. Apply pressure while heating and lube, then smack the nut with a hammer lightly to shock the steel to aid in separating the wheel from the shaft. It is important to losen the nut to the top of the threads of the steering shaft to protect the threads.



https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTec.../dp/B07GSM7N37

[test1328]

Thanks, guys! I appreciate your advice. I'll keep after it.

[bmorgil]

A cheap heat gun from China Freight can be real good here. It will keep you from melting the center of the wheel where the hob is molded in if you are not comfortable using a torch.

[51 CJ3]

Just stuff rattling around my brain this morning but wouldn’t dry ice applied to the shaft accomplish about the same result as heat to the hub without the risk of melting parts. This assumes dry ice is easily available, it’s as rare as hens teeth here.

[gmwillys]

Same here. If we were closer to the coast, then you can find dry ice. I use heat because I can direct the flame more accurately then trying to shrink the center shaft with ice. You do take the chance of buggering up the plastic on the wheel, but a little patience and care, it will work out. There is always more than one way to skin a goat, so if you try the dry ice route (and can obtain some), please post your results.

[bmorgil]

If you could get the dry ice on the shaft (male portion) and not the hub (female portion) of the assembly it would have the same effect. The idea with the heat is as follows. The heat on the hub causes it to expand ever so slightly. This can and usually does, break the bond that forms as the two pieces rust and swell together. The best way to free the hub when frozen to the shaft would be to heat the hub as gm suggests, and then use wax. Heat the hub up hot, and while it is hot press the wax against the shaft and hub spline interface. The heated parts will draw the wax into the splines and hopefully draw right in. The heat and wax method has been used by mechanics for many many years. I have used that method so many times I cant count. It works best when you get things very hot. The wax will smoke and melt and draw in to the splines. I use this method on engine blocks that have various bolts and threaded devices frozen in place by years of corrosion.

I was not able to get mine to come free. I eventually destroyed the wheel until the hub was fully exposed. Even then I could not get it apart! I'll admit I never had anything give me that much trouble. In the end a cutting wheel on a Dremell was used to cut the hub and split it open with a chisel. Fortunately a nice new steering wheel was not to expensive.

[TJones]

I will tell you what works for me on freezing waterline's to repair them is a propane bottle. You have to be VERY careful because liquid propane will burn/freeze body parts INSTANLEY at -44 degrees F.
I take a old propane bottle adapter with a hose on it and cut the hose about 4-5' long the have someone hold the bottle upside down and put the hose over what you want to freeze up and open the valve slowly until liquid propane stars to dribble out.
It will freeze a 2" copper waterline (full of running water) solid in about 2 minutes.
Just a thought but you really need to be careful, it will either burn you real bad or freeze you up.
That's my Alabama Hillbilly/Shade Tree Mechanic coming out

[51 CJ3]

I am trying to get a bearing (hub) out of an aluminum knuckle. I cannot for the life of me figure out why any engineer would think it’s a good idea to put untreated steel inside untreated aluminum. If the aluminum gets above 500 degrees it’s ruined. New knuckle is about $500 but Ford has them locked up on a recall related VIN verification. I have been trying to get one ordered for a week. I am on my way out to cut the flange off the hub so I can remove the brake shield to give me access to use the 20 ton press. The Willys is so much easier.

[gmwillys]

Bearing races can be removed by running a bead of weld around the inside of the race, but of course it won't help on a bearing unit like your knuckle. The weld works well with an exposed race. In your case, I would put the whole unit in the freezer overnight, then heat the aluminum housing quickly. The steel bearing will hold the cold, but the aluminum will heat quickly, releasing the bearing. Too much force with a press can distort the housing.

[51 CJ3]

Thanks for the idea. I didn’t get to try the press because I didn’t have enough pieces the right size and shape to brace and press. I talked to the dealer again this afternoon. He finally got permission from Ford to order the knuckle but no ETA yet. Wife is getting antsy without her car so I hope it is on the way. Sorry for the thread drift.