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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #221
    Senior Member
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    I am continuing to tear the front end apart and started in on one of the locking hubs. See the pictures here:

    IMG20230116154837.jpg
    IMG20230116170621.jpg
    IMG20230116165428.jpg
    IMG20230116165404.jpg

    Does anyone have any experience with these? Overall, things are in good shape. However, I'd like to replace the O-ring shown in the third photo, if possible, since it does have some slight damage. However, it doesn't look like a standard O-ring, but more like a square-sided O-ring (if that makes sense?). I'm not sure I could find one like this. Any ideas?

    Also, should I just make sure the bearings, pins, etc. are greased up well when I put it back together? Any other recommendations?

    Thanks!

  2. #222
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    There are a few options on where to purchase the service kit, i.e. Autozone or Amazon etc. If the O-rings in the kit are not square enough, stop by your local farm or industrial equipment dealer that repairs hydraulic cylinders. They will have the square O-rings for cheap. The gaskets can be made out of gasket material fairly easily. The snap rings and hardware are usually serviceable for putting it back together.

    https://www.warn.com/warn-industries...ub-service-kit

  3. #223
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    You can get the service kit on Amazon for about $40

  4. #224
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    If your hubs are 10 spline and 6 bolts you will need the #7300 service kit.

  5. #225
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    Jun 2021
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    Here is a photo of my axel u-joint. Can anyone tell me if they think this is the sealed Spicer? It feels really good and I don't see any issues with it. There wasn't much lube inside the knuckle, maybe some heavy oil. Just wondering if I should replace this joint or not.

    IMG20230122160421.jpg

  6. #226
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    That is the original design U-Joint. It is not sealed. If it moves through its range of motion smoothly and there is NO end play side to side when pushing the joint into the caps, you should disassemble it and check it for damage/wear. With no seals in the U-Joint, the knuckle must be filled to the lube level holes with the correct EP lubricant.

  7. #227
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    Now I know why some people say you have to fill the knuckle with lube when running the U-joints. I did not know the originals were not sealed. In fact, this is the first time I have seen this style U-joint without seals below the caps.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  8. #228
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    Jun 2021
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    Well, I don't ever remember my Dad disassembling the axle down this far, so I doubt he ever changed these in the Jeep's lifetime. Since I would need to take this U-joint apart anyways, I might as well install the sealed U-joints and not have to mess with the lube. I was really surprised at how nicely it rotates and moves without any discernible friction or roughness, though. Pretty impressive for not having much lube inside the knuckle. The king pin bearings and races were pretty worn, so I'll be replacing those. I'm fairly certain that those are original as well. The actual wheel bearings and races look good. I'm fairly certain that these were replaced by my Dad years ago and probably don't have many miles on them.

  9. #229
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    WARN Hub Lock O-Ring Size

    Paul, somehow your last post disappeared! Well it has happened before. I was just thinking that will be a great post for the tech section. If you can, would you re-post the Hub lock information. Put it in the Tech Section.

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