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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #141
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    I received the clutch kit yesterday, so I'll take the pertinent parts down with me when I deliver the motor so that they can balance everything with the clutch plate attached. I also ordered the flywheel ring gear so will be taking that down as well once I get it in. I'm not real familiar with everything on the clutch, though, so do I also need to take him the pilot bushing? Also, I'm assuming that the pressure plate has already been adjusted and is ready to go as received from KaiserWillys, right?

    I suppose the next step for me in the process is to clean up the bell housing and get the new clutch fork, throwout bearing, sleeve, and return spring installed. Is there anything that I should be aware of before I start into that? It looks pretty straightforward, but since I've never done this, I want to know of any "gotchas". I'm also assuming that the throwout bearing is already lubed and doesn't need any additional grease, but what about greasing the shaft and/or sleeve before install? Thanks for your help on this!

  2. #142
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by test1328 View Post
    I received the clutch kit yesterday, so I'll take the pertinent parts down with me when I deliver the motor so that they can balance everything with the clutch plate attached. I also ordered the flywheel ring gear so will be taking that down as well once I get it in. I'm not real familiar with everything on the clutch, though, so do I also need to take him the pilot bushing? Also, I'm assuming that the pressure plate has already been adjusted and is ready to go as received from KaiserWillys, right?

    I suppose the next step for me in the process is to clean up the bell housing and get the new clutch fork, throw-out bearing, sleeve, and return spring installed. Is there anything that I should be aware of before I start into that? It looks pretty straightforward, but since I've never done this, I want to know of any "gotchas". I'm also assuming that the throwout bearing is already lubed and doesn't need any additional grease, but what about greasing the shaft and/or sleeve before install? Thanks for your help on this!
    A small amount of grease on the input shaft, the pilot on the input, the input shaft spines and the front bearing retainer where the throw out bearing will be sliding. Not a lot you don't want grease slinging out into the clutch disc.You do not want the clutch plate attached to anything during balancing. It should already have a neutral balance. The flywheel can be balanced alone. Do not have him attach it to the crankshaft. The flywheel needs to have a neutral balance also. Just take the flywheel and new ring gear to him, also the pilot bushing to him, not the clutch assembly. He will need to replace the pilot bushing in the flywheel. There isn't an adjustment to the pressure plate. The clutch adjustment is performed in the linkage.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 12-23-2021 at 10:59 AM.

  3. #143
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    Thanks, bmorgil. I suppose I didn't explain myself well enough regarding the pressure plate adjustment. What I was meaning was that in the manual they go into great detail about adjusting the spacing between the spring levers and the plate, with a special gauge and using a spacer that is 0.310" thick (if i remember correctly). That is what I was getting at. I'm assuming that has already been done and I don't need to try to do that adjustment.

  4. #144
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes already been done. You should be all set.

  5. #145
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Bell Housings

    "Take a look at this picture that shows what the bell housing looks like."

    When we pulled the truck out of the barn, it smelled like mouse pee. The start of the restoration was to pull out the seats and we sprayed the inside of the cab with Febreze (it takes the stink off just about anything). We let it set for a weekend.

    Well, it didn't take the mouse smell away, but we started taking things apart and just endured it. We pulled the doghouse and radiator, then the engine. When we pulled engine, we found that the bell housing was packed solidly (like a bale of straw) with hay and straw and the little devils had made themselves a mouse apartment complex in the bell housing.

    Oil and grease would have been a better problem.....
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    "Take a look at this picture that shows what the bell housing looks like."

    When we pulled the truck out of the barn, it smelled like mouse pee. The start of the restoration was to pull out the seats and we sprayed the inside of the cab with Febreze (it takes the stink off just about anything). We let it set for a weekend.

    Well, it didn't take the mouse smell away, but we started taking things apart and just endured it. We pulled the doghouse and radiator, then the engine. When we pulled engine, we found that the bell housing was packed solidly (like a bale of straw) with hay and straw and the little devils had made themselves a mouse apartment complex in the bell housing.

    Oil and grease would have been a better problem.....
    HA! Yes, I agree! Oil and grease would definitely be better. I did take a closer look at the bell housing a few days ago and it doesn't appear to be bad at all. Should clean right up, I think.

  7. #147
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    Got my engine delivered to the rebuilder a week ago on 12/27. Said is should take about 8 weeks.

    I've started to rebuild the carb in the meantime and have it all taken apart and ready to clean. Any recommendations on a cleaning solution to use for the carb?

  8. #148
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    There are a few products out there specifically for soaking. I use a large tank ultrasonic, heated and filled with MC-3. They come out like brand new.

    https://www.sonicsonline.com/collect...-metal-cleaner

  9. #149
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    Quick question, guys. I am in the process of cleaning and rebuilding the carburetor and got to wondering about lubrication for the various parts that need to rotate, like the rods that the butterfly valves rotate on and the outer linkages and springs that are outside of the carb. I'm fairly certain I don't need any lubrication on the interior where the gas is located, but was wondering if these other locations might benefit from a drop of oil in discrete locations. Thanks!

  10. #150
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    No one has an opinion?

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