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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #181
    OK. Got back on the steering gear box and got it torn apart. As I suspected, everything internal looked amazingly good. Nothing worn that I can see, bearings and bushings all look good. I'll replace the sector shaft oil seal, just because. But, I do have some questions.
    1. Is there no oil seal at the top, where the top cover bolts to the housing? It appears that there is nothing (except gravity) to keep the oil from running past the upper worm gear bearings. I don't see a seal in the diagrams or in the parts list on KW.
    2. Regarding that top cover, with the shim pack. The shims I removed were in perfect condition. Can I not re-use these or should I order the new shim pack?
    3. I plan on replacing the upper steering column bearing, although I haven't taken it out yet. The snap ring is there and is tight (there was another ring on top of the bearing that the spring sat on that was loose, which is what I saw previously). I don't see a listing on KW to buy a new snap ring for this location. Is this something I can buy elsewhere?

    Thanks!

  2. #182
    Just bumping this up in case you missed it.

  3. #183
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Good bump!

    No oil seal at the top.

    You should check the load to ensure the correct shim pack. Chances are it will need a little more drag.

    I think you might be looking at part of the bearing. The bearing has a snap ring in it. It is an assembly.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 04-14-2022 at 08:24 PM.

  4. #184
    Thank you for answering my questions! Just things that run through my mind during the week...

  5. #185
    Well, I believe I have the steering box back together and all went well. The gear box is good to go. Only question I have now is once I install it back into the vehicle, how best to fill the gear box with that thick 00 gear lube? The fill hole is pretty small on it. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for filling it up?

  6. #186
    I'm also going to make sure all the other steering linkages are good to go. I think all is in good shape, except for the rubber tie rod dust boots, which I assume need to be replaced. Any other tips or things to look for on the rest of the steering?

  7. #187
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    What lube do you have? Usually you can get it in a squeeze bottle with a trim to fit top. Just trim it down to where it fits in the fill hole. Hold it off a little so air can escape. Also a large veterinary syringe always works well. You can get them at a place that sells livestock supplies.

  8. #188
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Depending on your intended use, the dust boots on the tie rod ends can be serviceable as is. Just keep the rod end greased and it will keep most of the dirt out. In short I would not tear apart a perfectly good tie rod end just to replace the boot unless you are looking for a show quality restoration. On our weekly driver '46 Heep, the boots are there in a physical sense, but don't poke at them or they might crumble off.

    The syringe is a great tip for filling or topping off fluids. Often times you can sneak them into places where you can't fit a bottle. You tend to have more control of the fluid being transferred because you can stop the injection, where a pump or squeeze bottle you can make a mess in a hurry.

  9. #189
    Thanks, guys. I appreciate the guidance. I do have the "00" heavy gear lube that you recommended for the steering gear box that is in the squeeze bottle. I just wasn't sure how well I'd be able to get that bottle nipple to match the small hole. I do like the idea of the veterinary syringe, though, so I'll see if I can pick one of those up.

    Also, thanks for the tip on the tie rod end boots. I haven't spent any time inspecting them just yet. I'm not going for show room quality, but I want to try and hit everything on the front end now while I've got the engine out so that I don't have to go back after I reinstall it, when access is that much harder. I'll look at the boots closely and make sure they are still doing their jobs before I start taking things apart. The little I've looked and messed around with the steering linkage now that the connecting rod is off, everything seems to move quite easily, so I don't think there is much wrong.

  10. #190
    It's been a while guys. Work and coaching baseball has greatly slowed my progress, but I'm still after it.

    I did finally talk to my engine builder at All Pro Engines. Apparently, they have been severely hampered by the availability of parts and supply chain issues. He says they finally have all the parts in and should have things wrapped up fairly soon. Considering that it has been almost 6 months since I dropped it off to them, I surely hope so! However, it sounds like he's doing everything right, which is what is most important to me. I asked about the one cylinder that was bad (had zero compression) and he said that the piston was broke. When I asked what exactly that meant, he said that the top ring was fine but that half the piston was missing between the 2nd and 3rd ring. He said he has seen this before.

    Still working on getting the Master Cylinder removed so I can rebuild it. With the PTO drive shaft to the winch in the way, it is taking me a bit more effort to get that removed. I did finally get the drive shaft out, so it shouldn't be too much more effort to get the MC out and repaired. I have the Steering gear box completed but want to get the MC taken care of before I reinstall that.

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