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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #211
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Be sure to check the backlash. This will be a big indication on the general condition of things. Lubricate the bearings behind the yoke and in the carrier after you clean it out and before you rotate anything. Once you have it all cleaned up and rotating with some lube on the bearings, check the backlash. You don't want to skip this step.

    And as gm said, if its making grinding/scraping bearing noise when you rotate it, you are all done testing!
    Last edited by bmorgil; 01-03-2023 at 07:29 AM.

  2. #212
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    Thanks, guys! I really appreciate your comments and advice.

  3. #213
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    Well, got the LF brake drum off and oil starts dripping out as soon as I took the hubs off. It appeared that the seal in the drum had failed. I don't have calipers big enough but the drum appears to be over the size limit, so guess I'll be replacing the drums. It appears that either the grease/lube in the steering knuckle has either liquefied or else someone put oil in it instead of the correct lubricant. The wheel bearings seem to be fine, although I haven't examined them closely just yet. I just got to the point of removing the brake backing plate, so haven't gotten to the king pins yet. Who knows what I'll find in there. I was thinking about just replacing the wheel bearings but what do you think of retaining the old ones if they appear and feel fine? Also, I know it's been discussed previously, but can you tell me what is the correct lube for the steering knuckles? Can I buy it or do I have to "make it" myself like I've seen on some of the Youtube channels? It isn't the same lube as for the steering gear box is it? Even that seems a little lower viscosity than what it should be.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by test1328; 01-09-2023 at 10:17 AM.

  4. #214
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    If they feel good and they look good, you certainly can use them. Just keep them running on the same races, don't mix them up.

    The lube:
    https://willysjeepforum.kaiserwillys...ox-Lubrication

  5. #215
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    Thanks, BM. So, if I understand what you said in the other lube thread, if I go with a sealed U-joint like the SPICER sealed Lifetime non re-lubeable 5-760X at the knuckles, I wouldn't need to fill the knuckle with the heavy lube and you would just leave that dry, with the exception of wetting the felt seals with ATF? Is that correct? That sounds like the better solution to me.

  6. #216
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes. If you want to run it dry, you need to use a sealed U-Joint and you need to pack the king pin bearings with wheel bearing grease. Depending on how you use it, periodically re-pack the king pin bearings when you repack the wheel bearings. And a little ATF on the felt seal from time to time.

  7. #217
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    Can anyone tell me where this is supposed to go? It's just a spacer, I think. I believe it either sits between the master cylinder and the frame or the steering gear box and frame, but I'm not sure. I only seem to have one. It must have stayed attached to the frame and then fell off and I didn't see where it was originally. Thanks for the help.


    IMG20230108174900.jpg

  8. #218
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    That looks like a fender shim. Its in too good of shape though.

  9. #219
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    It is a fender shim, but none are called out for the brake master cylinder or the steering gear. It doesn't look like it had been clamped between anything, as Bmorgil said, it's way too clean. Odd things turn up when working on a Willys. I would say that not much surprises me, but then that becomes a challenge to the Heep gods.

  10. #220
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    Thanks, guys. It very well could be a fender shim that just ended up on the floor after I've moved the fenders around in my shop so many times I can't count. I sure don't know where it came from. I did clean it up first for the picture.

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