61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

[test1328]

Let's talk about the front suspension and shocks.

I'm looking for input on springs and shocks. Shocks first since that is easier, I think. Kaiser Willys has shocks for pretty cheap. However, they don't say what manufacturer they come from or anything else. Does anyone have any thoughts on good shocks to use, whether they come from KW or elsewhere?

Next come the springs, which is a long story. My Dad bought this Jeep in 1966. Starting around 1970-72, he started taking our family camping in a spot that required traversing some fairly rough sections of 4x4 road where he pulled a trailer to haul all of our gear. We would camp for a week with my Mom and Dad and four of us kids, so lots of gear. I believe because of this, he put on heavy duty springs on all four corners on this Jeep. After we grew up a bit and quit going on these camping trips, my Dad cussed the rough ride that came with these HD springs and decided to switch out the springs. If I recall correctly, he simply took out leaves from the Heavy Duty springs to arrive at a standard spring pack. I could be wrong about this, but in any case, he went back to the standard spring set. So...my question is I'm not sure how good the springs that are currently in place really are and how much hard use they've really seen? What do you think? Should I try to use them or get new ones? Are the ones at KW good or are there other suppliers that produce quality springs?

[bmorgil]

I have KW's shocks and springs on my Jeep and they are fine. I would bet they are Monroe shocks.

If your Jeeps ride height is in specification, your springs are probably just fine. They can take a lot more than camping gear. The spring package really would work on a light 1/2 ton truck. Pulling leafs and adding leafs has always been a way to adjust your vehicles load capability. I would clean and check the pivots, bolts and bushings for wear. If the leafs are not broken and the ride height is good, I would run them. If it is sagging and/or there are any cracked springs I would buy new ones.

[test1328]

Sorry for going backwards a bit, but I have a question about the axle shafts and the u-joint to use on those. Previously, it was recommended that I should use the sealed Spicer 5-760X u-joint. However, when I went to order these, I saw that the OD of the cups is listed at 1.188 in. I believe that is too big for the axle shaft U-joints. It should be closer to 1 in., don't you think? Is there a sealed Spicer that you can recommend that is the right diameter? I think it should be closer to 1.062? Thanks!

[bmorgil]

Yes the 5-260X is what you need for the model 25/27. Sorry about that, the 5-760X is for the model 30/44.

[gmwillys]

The shocks are in fact Monroe shocks. I put a set on my Heep a couple of years back from KW, and that's what they were. As Bmorgil said, if your springs are sagging, then by all means invest in new ones, especially if you plan to use your Jeep off road.

On a side note, I bought a '91 Jeep Wrangler, (Heep force 3) and it had a set of open country soft rider springs with a 2" lift installed. The road manners are way better than any Jeep I've had. Our '46 has a presumed original set of leaf springs, and it rides slightly better than a buck board wagon, but there are 10 leafs up front and 9 in the rear, so what would one expect.

[Cajun98]

Does anyone know what these old jeeps came from the factory with, spring wise? My '59 CJ5 has nine leaf spring packs in the rear and seven in the front. Don't know if they are original or not.

[test1328]

Thanks for the clarification on the U-joints! Glad I caught that before I ordered them.

From the little research I've done it seems that leaf springs with 5 leaves on the front and 7 on the rear were standard? I'm not 100% sure, though. I counted my front ones just the other day and I have 6 leaves on the front, pretty much confirming that my Dad put together a "custom" leaf pack. They look really good, though, and I don't think they're sagging much, if at all. Since I'm working on the front end and have the wheels off the front and everything torn back to the king pin bearing races on the axle, it is basically impossible for me to measure the right height to see if they're sagging. I also have all four corners on roll-able dollies so I can move the entire vehicle around my shop if I need to. That actually came in handy last weekend when I used my electric winch (hoist) mounted on the rafters above me to pull off the Ramsey PTO winch from the front end. That would have been impossible to do by myself otherwise.

[test1328]

GM, thanks for confirming the KW shocks are likely Monroe shocks. After doing a bit more research and looking at the various options out there, I've concluded that going with these shocks seem to be the best option. There are cheaper ones out there, but I suspect lower quality. Of course, there are also much more expensive shocks out there, but I don't think I would see much improvement in the ride with these springs and the way these Jeeps are built.

As much as I like the thought of putting a small 2" lift on this jeep, I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible. I also don't want to fight any headaches that lifts often bring on these short wheel base vehicles. With the limited power of the little engine, I really don't think putting larger tires on it makes sense, either.

[test1328]

Back to U-joints again... Sorry!

Do you guys recommend a different u-joint for the driveshafts? Do you think greaseable U-joints are a plus for the drive shaft u-joints or not?

[bmorgil]

Nowadays you cant beat the HIGH Quality sealed U-Joints. Properly installed they will go a long time. The nature of the seals in a greasable u-joint, have to allow grease to "purge" past the seals when re-lubed. This means the seal is a compromise between grease being able to purge out and contaminants being able to get back in. Water is the biggest enemy. The u-joint warms as it operates. When water hits it from the environment, the cooling effect tries to draw the water back into the joint. The seals must prevent this. The modern sealed u-joints are very good at this. I have personally examined some very high millage products that looked like new. I would not use a greasable u-joint anymore unless I had to. There are still some people however that prefer to keep them full of grease and would rather purge them from time to time. Your driveshaft should have 1310 series external snap rings. That should be a Spicer SPL 5-1310X sealed kit.