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Thread: 61 CJ5 Resto Restart Info

  1. #261
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    OK. Understood, bmorgil! You're right, of course. I'll try to make the tool work and get the seals in the right way. I did notice that one of the seal guides was a bit banged up on the bottom of the ID. Perhaps from someone trying to do what I suggested long ago? I smoothed it out a bit with the Dremel just to take any sharp edges off. Both guides are in decent shape, though and still tight.

  2. #262
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    More questions for you!

    I've started putting the pinion in and have to ask if anyone has a trick on holding the pinion in order to tighten the nut and set the bearings?
    What is the proper torque level for the pinion nut? I've heard 100 ft-lbs and then the manual talks about 200-220 ft-lbs? Of course, when the manual mentions 200-225 ft-lb, that is on the rear Dana 44 and not the 25.
    What is the proper gear oil to use in the front diff? Should I lube the bearings with this oil before I set the bearings?

    Thanks for the help.

  3. #263
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    That will work. It is important to apply sufficient torque to compress the shim pack. The nut can take a lot of torque. Get it up over 200# and it is fine on the 25 and the 44.

    I use a yoke holding tool similar to this. https://www.freedomracing.com/6719b-...der-6719a.html . You can use a long piece of steel strap and drill holes in it to match the yoke. https://www.amazon.com/6883-Holding-.../dp/B0872J58NV

  4. #264
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    Thank you. Any comment on lubing the bearings before I start or not? I suppose it doesn't matter too much. Also, any comment on the gear oil? I suppose 90W or thereabouts GL-5 would be best, but I'm not positive.

  5. #265
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Always put some gear oil on the bearings first. For lube any good brand GL5 hypoid axle lube will get the job done. A 75w-90 will do fine.

  6. #266
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    Awesome. Thanks. The 75W-90 is exactly what I bought yesterday.

  7. #267
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    Question on the front springs that I'm dealing with now. I took the passenger side front spring off and measured it for arch. Based on some dimensions I found for new springs, it appears that my springs have lost about an inch of arch. I'm thinking about getting them re-arched by a local shop, but I haven't found out how much that will cost me yet. However, when looking over the other components, I have found that the front shackle plates, which are of this style https://www.kaiserwillys.com/product...non-greasable/ are fairly worn on the sides where they are bolted to the spring bracket where they obviously rotate, creating the wear. So, I need to replace these shackles. My question is on whether you think it is worthwhile to go with a greasable shackle kit or stick with the original style as shown in the link? Anyone have any experience with the greasable shackles? Not sure if it will make much difference. It certainly won't help prevent the wear on the side shackle plates when they rotate like the old plates were worn. Any ideas on how I could prevent that type of wear? Maybe a poly washer?

  8. #268
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Usually in the long run, you will be better off with new springs. By the time you replace the bushings, straps and insulators and pay for the re-arch, you could have bought a new set with new steel. Re-arched springs usually don't hold their shape for long with any kind of loading, regardless of whether they are cold or hot re-formed. Back in the day it was a quick fix for a sagging car that needed to be sold.

  9. #269
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I agree with Bmorgil. Re-arched springs are a quick, get it down the lot fix. The first off road adventure or a few months of on road travels would put you back to where you were. It is worth the money to invest in a new set.
    The non greased front shackles do alright, bit sounds like your bushing is not centered in the spring for it to be rubbing the side brackets. If your spring bushings are loose in the spring eye, the bushings can walk out. I tend to like the M38A1 style of grease able shackles that also have a link bracket connecting the open end. You get the serviceability of the grease able shackles with the added strength of the tie bar.

  10. #270
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    Thanks for the advice on re-arching the springs! I appreciate it. Looks like I'll be buying some new springs! Speaking of new springs, what is your opinion on potentially buying springs that would provide a slight lift, say 2" or so? What kind of problems do you think I might encounter? I've always been a bit leering of lifting vehicles due to the potential problems, such as driveshaft angles.

    As for the shackles, the bushings are not loose in the spring eyes. They are poly bushings but do not extend past the spring eye itself, so I suspect the shackle plate and spring were rubbing on one another. Here's are a couple of photos of what they looked like prior to disassembly.

    IMG20230404192856.jpg
    IMG20230404192902.jpg

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