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Thread: Is That A Willys Wagon?? 1956 Willys Project

  1. #121
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    VERY NICE there JB !!!!

  2. #122
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    CA4ED2E7-3D4C-4E1C-8C9A-881B6452C3D7.jpg

    Got a little prep work done before church this morning...

  3. #123
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Those are some nice looking ends jb. Should be darn strong.

  4. #124
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Those ends are strong, that's for sure. The articulation without binding will be tremendous!

  5. #125
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Did you use PVC for the mockup?

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrBeard View Post
    Did you use PVC for the mockup?
    Yes, I did use PVC for mockup. It has its limitations in cycling the suspension(meaning not useful because pinion side of differential couterweights; it will all swarm apart on you). What is is useful for, is a visual where everthing connects, seeing driveline placement/clearance, and should you see the need for adjustment, save you a few hundred dollars in rebuying DOM tubing. Getting a visual on the setup is the benefit.

    I didn't work on it today but hope to get several hours welding in tomorrow. Measurements for steering components/order a few parts.

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmwillys View Post
    Those ends are strong, that's for sure. The articulation without binding will be tremendous!
    1 1/4" Enduro joints

    1 1/4" for strength
    Enduro joint for funtional grease inserts/cuts down on sqeaking suspension from crossing rivers/dust/mud/salt on roads; helps against wear.

  8. #128
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    11/4" Enduro joints aren't overkill, and the grease able aspect is good for the longevity/peacefulness of the suspension. The PCV pipe for the layout is a great plan! A cheap way to get everything placed and measurements made before cutting the first stick of pipe.

  9. #129
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    We're learning.

    Keep on teaching!

  10. #130
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    E7519134-EA30-4211-A1C9-3A67C616DCC8.jpgI don't have a lathe, and welding around tubing is my weakness, so I improvised with a couple construction rollers.

    Welding the bungs in can be done a many different ways. My process is to drill a 1/2” hole, half the length of the bung (in this case it was an inch in length, so 1/2” hole; 1/2” from end of the bung). After drilling holes, taper end of tubing on grinder for deeper weld penetration. The set-nut and bung was already screwed to within 7 threads of enduro joint from where i was doing the mock-up, so next i coat about 2” of threads with grease, then screw the bung down over the grease with about 3/4 the bung still on shaft(makes it easy to remove quickly after welding). Place joint/bung in tubing, tac each hole in side of tubing, weld bung in, button weld 1/2” holes. Remove joint immediately after welding so heat is not transfered to poly parts in the joint. Repeat same process on opposite end. Note, grease keeps bung from sticking to threaded shaft(bung can/will arc threads to bung while welding and reason for grease use) and once weld completed the grease gets burnt out so there isnt a grease mess once done.

    This may not be the fastest way, but it makes a strong set-up.

    Feel free to share your tips on doing this.
    Last edited by jbrewington; 01-10-2022 at 10:38 PM.

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