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Thread: 51 Truck

  1. #21
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    ha ha

    True, lots of people like to armchair everything online. Ask anyone who posts regularly on video sites, lots of comments from people who are watching while the content creators are doing.

  2. #22
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    Bakes - continued

    Ladies and gentlemen, the master cylinder did not disappoint.

    I have many questions. Nothing in this looks right to me. Are the clutch/brake peddle return springs supposed to be just hanging on the frame as such?

    IMG_9915.jpg

    I'm not sure this is going to be serviceable. Check out before and after clean-up.

    IMG_9916.jpg IMG_9917.jpg IMG_9918.jpg
    IMG_9925.jpg

  3. #23
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    It cleaned up ok, but the bore of the cylinder does not look supper clean. It has some pitting and such.

    IMG_9926.jpg IMG_9927.jpg

    This cap is for sure not right. Not even the right thread, which explains the copious amount of pipe sealer goop that was on it.

    IMG_9922.jpg

    The pushrod is slightly bent but I think I can straighten it out.

    IMG_9920.jpg

    I don't really want to buy a new one because of $$$. Also, the shipping is cost prohibitive. There was a crush washer missing and the switch is leaking at one of the posts.

    I really should have taken this apart before I ordered the rebuild kit. At this point, I may as well bought a replacement. Just the few parts I need kills in shipping. I'm still waiting on all the other parts I ordered so I can get things back together. Starting to have lots of different systems in pieces all over the shop. It's stressing me out man. I like to work on one thing at a time and put it back together. But, who am I kidding that never happens. I've got a large number of projects all over the place.

  4. #24
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
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    tm,
    The one thing you have going for ya is it is made in the good ole "USA", so I would say it is rebuildable!!!
    The pushrod looks like the previous owner made a "Oh Sh*T Stop" at one time in it's previous ownership
    The rest of the pieces parts are fairly cheap to replace, but the shipping like you said gets expensive.
    I have done the same thing, I get in a hurry to replace parts and you get online to order it, place your order then you realize you need more parts and if I would of been a little more patient I figure out that if would of ordered everything at the same time the shipping is the same price for all of it, "One of the things that could of gone on the new Thread The Do's and Don'ts"
    If I would of slowed down, that's why I had a bucket in the shop and cold beer.
    Sit down, take a sip, think it through and plan it out!!!
    You've got a long way's to go, Get A Bucket
    Last edited by TJones; 10-26-2021 at 05:45 AM.

  5. #25
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    I just went down to NAPA and bought a master cylinder when mine failed (piston seized and the rod broke through it). Seems like it was about $50 ready to install.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  6. #26
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Unfortunately as I said below, you usually end up being better off with a USA factory rebuild. The bore is usually pitted which wont work. Factory rebuilds now a days can be a new casting, a sleeved casting or an over bored casting. If you have a good bore and all the correct parts, A rebuild kit is great. That is seldom what happens. Usually something you need is ruined or missing. Jeff is all over it, it is hard to beat a NAPA re-manufacture or new. Usually they are USA and have a nice warranty. In any event, if you look for USA you will be taking your best shot!

  7. #27
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    Thanks guys, I really want to keep things as original as possible with the truck. Obviously, some things just are not possible and future plans for the brakes on this include an upgrade to front disk. At which point I'll change out the reservoir anyways. Seeing that I have a rebuild kit here, I'm going to try and get it working. I like the bore and sleeve idea.

    I have to say, judging by the state of the brakes, wiring, fuel system, and carb, the PO's statement of, "I was driving it around town 6-months ago," don't seem accurate.

    -TM

  8. #28
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    Well, I've gotten stuff a little more cleaned up but I am waiting on more parts to get things back together. I honed out the master and rebuilt it. I think it came out pretty alright. I even found the right cap for it.

    IMG_9944.jpg

    I starting putting together the wheel brake systems.

    IMG_9946.jpg

    The hub took some time to clean out but the bearing sets look/feel good. Waiting on an o-ring and oil seal and we'll get'er back together.

    IMG_9947.jpg IMG_9948.jpg

  9. #29
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    Just a small update, I’ve been working a bit on the truck. I was trying to get her road ready for the Christmas parade but looks like I am out of time and there are a few things that I can’t get done..

    For starters, let’s focus on the accomplishments. I got the new fuel tank and electric pump installed. The entire brake system is new, save the master cylinder and one hard line. A bunch of wiring has been replaced or cleaned up. All the lights work, including a new turn signal switch. I even got a trailer light harness all fitted.

    Now for the bad news. The carburetor is having some trouble. The truck fires up, no problem. But then, it starts running real ruff like it’s flooding or something. There is also a fuel leak at one of the linkage shafts. I’m not sure if there is a missing seal or something. Seems like there is too much play.

    The other big issue is the truck smokes pretty badly. I did a compression test and I got 118 to 120 lbs of pressure in all 6 cylinders. All plugs are also firing strong. I’m thinking there is a valve or head gasket problem I’ll have to get into. Either way, not going to make the Christmas parade this weekend… Sad face

  10. #30
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Its sounds like it is flooding. What is the fuel pressure output of your pump?

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