Page 14 of 14 FirstFirst ... 4121314
Results 131 to 138 of 138

Thread: 1st Time Jeep Owner

  1. #131
    On a brighter note, finally got the wheels sand blasted, and painted. Then had new tires installed. Also scored a set of Jeep hubcaps on EBAY. Granted they're not correct for a 1965 CJ5A however look pretty good.IMG_1541.jpg

  2. #132
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,283
    "granted they're not correct for a 1965 CJ5A"

    Just keep in mind The Rules of Jeep:

    1. What you see is what you have.

    2. Trust nothing you read or what you are told until you verify it with your own eyes.

    3. Never say "Willys-Overland would never have ______________________."

    Fill in the blank.

    If they needed to and it fit they could have, and they probably did. Your "not original wheels" could have been a dealer option (excess inventory sold to dealers as a trim upgrade) or WO might have had too many Wagoneer hubcaps in the stock room so they used them on the line for a couple of weeks.

    Only you will know the difference!

  3. #133
    The dead giveaway these hub caps are incorrect is "red/white/blue" colors. This was started when AMC took ownership. I think Jeep Kaiser colors were "red / gold", (at least on the hub caps). Another issue with the dual res brake conversion. Nothing in the instructions regarding how the brake lines from the dual res are re-connected to the old one line system. Here's a photo of current set-up. Top line is feed from old one line master. Top left goes to rear brakes, top right goes to passenger front, two lower lines are actually looped together??? Do I need a new proportioning valve also? IMG_1544.jpg

  4. #134
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,866
    The hubcaps are what would be called "Nostalgically Correct". I like them!

    The dual master cylinder should have the front chamber as the "Rear Brakes Secondary" and the rear chamber (closest to the firewall) as the "Front Primary". The primary goes to the proportioning valve front "In", and the "Secondary" goes to the proportioning valve rear "In". Depending on how many outputs the proportioning valve has, from the front to a tee if needed to split it, and to the front brake pistons. The rear is the same. From the rear of the proportioning valve to a tee if needed and then to the rear brake pistons. If you don't have a proportioning valve, you will need one with a dual Master Cylinder, unless the Master Cylinder System is internally "Balanced". The "double tee" set up you have pictured is unique, but not quite right. The conversion does not hook directly into the old "one line system". You will need to run a few new lines.
    Last edited by bmorgil; Yesterday at 09:33 AM.

  5. #135
    The original single master cylinder braking system does not have a proportioning valve. So my question is when converting to a new dual master cylinder braking system does it require also purchasing a proportioning valve for proper installation?

  6. #136
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,866
    If you install a Dual Drum Brake Master Cylinder, retain the original drum brakes with the original wheel brake cylinder size, no you do not need a "Proportioning" or "Combination valve". The sizing of the original brake components are such that the system is balanced.The Combination Valve is always there and needed in Disc/Drum combinations. There are various reasons but suffice it to say the valve controls the difference in braking requirements for a disc front / drum rear vehicle. If you change the brakes in a way that allows unequal braking front to rear like larger rear brakes you will also need a proportioning valve. It is important that the rear brakes do not lock up, if at all, before the front brakes or the vehicle will spin uncontrollably in a panic stop.

    So if you are staying all original and just adding a dual Master Cylinder For Drum Brakes, you do not need a valve. Depending on your Master Cylinder, usually the back chamber closest to the firewall will go to the front brakes and the forward Chamber will go to the rear brakes. If your kit comes with a valve, use it. If not you don't need it. Just be sure your Dual Master Cylinder is for drum brakes if you are keeping the original drum brakes front and rear.
    Last edited by bmorgil; Yesterday at 09:41 AM.

  7. #137
    Thank you for an excellent response! Very informative and complete!

  8. #138
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,866
    You are welcome! Keep it going, your project sounds like it is coming along well.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •