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Thread: 1st Time Jeep Owner

  1. #81
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    I cant quite tell from the pic. It should be a 25 in a 65' CJ5, it could be a 27 in a late one and ya never know what someone might have slipped in. Look for the casting numbers on the center housing. These guy's have a nice I.D. article.

    https://palmbeachcustoms.com/jeep-ax...ication-chart/

    The parts can get a little salty but, I am always grateful they are available. The availability of parts is one of the main reasons I restored mine.
    Last edited by bmorgil; 08-16-2022 at 07:37 AM.

  2. #82
    I'm 100% positive it was never changed from new. The front of the housing has the number "27" cast into it, which is why I guessed it to be a 27???
    Jeep Axle.jpg

  3. #83
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Yes that would indicate a model 27. You must have a late build. The 27 really didn't show up until 1966. However as we all have found and have been told by the old timers who worked there, they put in what they had to get the vehicles out the door.

  4. #84
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    Hint - paint the brake lines - they tend to want to corrode or rust a bit.

  5. #85
    This marks the first time I ever purchased a prebent line set that was not stainless steel. This decision was somewhat forced on me due to the dual master cylinder. To my knowledge no one offers a prebent line set for this configuration, therefore knowing it's going to require cutting and re-flaring, I'd rather perform that on standard brake line material vs the much harder stainless steel. RUST, yes living in the rustbelt I'm all too familiar with the extra steps we must take to protect our vehicles. Axles, frame, and brake lines will be painted with POR15.

  6. #86
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Don't you just hate rust? There are a few places that sell the stainless line in bulk if you want to fab your own. If you have a good flaring tool, stainless isn't that bad to work with. Lots of lube on the flare and bending it takes a bending tool to do a good job, it is stiffer than standard brake line.

  7. #87
    Pulled the rear axle completely out. Replacing all the leaf spring attachment points as well as both rear shock mounts. Since I'm doing a lot of "torch work", also removed the fuel tank and found it is extremely filthy. Going to order new plastic fuel tank. Lifted the tank and the floor under it is terrible condition so I'll also have some sheet metal / welding work. One problem leads to another and then another......... One bright point, removing the driverside rusted floor will give me excellent access to the master cylinder!

  8. #88
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
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    "Going to order new plastic fuel tank."

    Plastic is the way to go. Fuel that sits, even with all the mouse milk we add to it, gathers water and water makes ... rust. Plastic won't rust. One long term problem solved!

  9. #89
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catlewis View Post
    One bright point, removing the driverside rusted floor will give me excellent access to the master cylinder!
    Hahahah, true positive forward thinking!

  10. #90
    Major rust issues under the fuel tank and inside tool box (passenger side). Sheet metal repair parts are difficult to find for this Jeep. Not many out there for 65 CJ. Appears I'll be making most of the repair panels myself.IMG_1402.jpgIMG_1400.jpgIMG_1399.jpg

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