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Thread: 1st Time Jeep Owner

  1. #151
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    Just an FYI follow up on this side brace. I found them on EBAY. Seller name is CANDCEQUIPMENT, located in Unionville Indiana. Price is $22.00 each.

  2. #152
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    Good deal. I've bought a couple of things over the years. As of late, they have been getting into the Jeep game, so I haven't bought or looked into their pieces to see where they come from. Please report back to let us know how it turns out.

  3. #153
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    So far they appear to be great! Placed order on Thursday, scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Immediately provided shipping / tracking info (didn't have to ask for it). My first impression is they manufacture some of their own parts but also sell parts produced by others. I noticed they sell Juan fenders.

  4. #154
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    Received the part from C and D, it's actually a "Juan" part. Similar dimensionally, but lighter steel. It will work, however I would not categorize it as top quality.

  5. #155
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    My Dad bought a '51 M38/CJ3A Jeep that was an MD Juan body and frame. The only original pieces were the drive line and a few odds and ends. The body fitment was in my opinion was terrible. In full disclosure, this was an early Juan body, circa '85 or so. The quirks of the M38/CJ3A Juan bodies is that they share attributes from both the models of the M38 and a few attributes of the 3A. The last photo is of an actual M38 for reference. The newer bodies are supposed to be a lot better, but like you said, the quality of the steel used leaves a bit to be desired. The metallurgical makeup of the steel seems to be a conglomeration of scrap steel and rebar, so welding with it is a treat.
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  6. #156
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    All the welding I'm doing on body repairs has definitely provided the opportunity to compare various welding wire manufacturers. Lincoln is what I like best followed by Inweld, then Hobart, and last is the stuff supplied by Harbor Freight. Also, welding this very thin material has taught me preparation prior to the weld is far more important than joining thicker materials. Also, welder settings are critical. Currently using .023" wire on body sheetmetal. I'm not a "body man", doing best I can, planning a rattle can paint job aimed at mimicking original faded / weathered look, but want proper structure under it. Meaning if so desired at a later date, it could be dropped off at a professional paint shop and they could put a nice paint job on it without doing any metal work.

  7. #157
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    .023 is what I use on my small Lincoln hobby MIG. It works great for a lot of things.

  8. #158
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
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    I use ESAB .035 solid core wire with 75/25 argon CO2, through an old Miller 135. I like to burn in as hot as I can, with as fast of a wire speed as the material will allow. I bought a new rig that I have been itching to try. It's a multi process MIG, TIG, and stick from Eastwood Fab.

    Metal prep does make or break a quality weld, that's for sure. A tip I found is to use the nylon abrasive brushes that Horrible Freight sell for $3.99. The brushes eat through paint layers and Bondo without removing any metal. They work much better than wire brushes mainly because you don't have to dodge wires flying about. Another plus to the nylon is that it preps the metal enough for primer to adhere to with just a good wipe down with prepsol.

  9. #159
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
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    gmwillys those "horrible freight" brushes are great on gaskets too. The next time you can't get a gasket surface clean, go after it with one of those. Great find and tip gmwillys!

  10. #160
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    I have a Lincoln 140HD and use the same shielding gas mix. Normally have it set-up with .035" wire, however there was not way I have the talent to weld sheet metal with that heavy wire. .023" at lowest heat setting seems t work good when the metal is clean and good ground. I'll check into those nylon abrasive brushes and thanks for the tip!

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