1st Time Jeep Owner

[bmorgil]

Yes I should have paid more attention to your question. You are correct, remove the breaker plate assembly first and then the points and condenser. Take out the two screws that hold the plate in, and the wire. Rotate the plate to unlock it and lift it out.

[Catlewis]

Installed new points, condenser, & rotor cap. Disconnected the fuel line from tank, sprayed a little carb cleaner into the carb, pulled the choke shut and it fired up like it was running yesterday instead of 1985! Next I connected a piece of fuel line to the pump and then to a filter and then into a 5-gallon gas can. Started turning engine and immediately noticed the pump pulled fuel from the can and thru the filter however nothing in carb. Disassembled the carb and cleaned with carb cleaner, reassembled and it fired right up and idled. Engine sounds great, no odd noises only thing I've found so far that doesn't work is the alternator. She doesn't charge. Still a long way before it's drivable however it's certainly encouraging. FYI this is the tag from distributor which what I used to buy proper points and condenser. IMG_1233.jpg

[bmorgil]

Nice! Sounds like a perfect day working on the Willys. Hang on to that tag. You can buy a new rivit online.

[Catlewis]

It's actually attached to the distributor by one of the screws that also attaches clips to hold distributor cap down. I noticed another tag hanging from the firewall behind the engine. Appears to be hanging from a wire. I'll have to take a photo and share. This Jeep is incredibly "intact" and unmolested considering the age.

[Catlewis]

Also wanted to report back about the mystery "lever" under dash. Upon further investigation this is an old trailer brake controller.
jeep20.jpg

[Catlewis]

Here's the tag hanging behind engine on firewall. It was attached with just a wire.
jeep21.jpg

[Catlewis]

Pulled radiator and heater core for re-conditioning. Both leak.
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[bmorgil]

Man that's a rare tag! Those things are usually long gone. Keep us posted on how you do finding a shop to recondition those pieces. It seems to be a difficult trade to find in a lot of places nowadays.

[Catlewis]

I believe both the radiator and heater core are original parts. The radiator actually has a hard line for the overflow. Most have a barbed fitting and a rubber hose. Yep, I found a place here in central PA to re-condition both, in fact I'm dropping them off today after work.

[Catlewis]

I did break two of the clips used to thread bolts attaching radiator to body. Noticed they are available but expensive!
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