Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Cleaning tips

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    E OK
    Posts
    331

    Cleaning tips

    I was looking at my transmission housing yesterday and marveling at how hard 70 years of gunk is to remove. I started off by spraying a cleaner like Purple Power on it then using the pressure washer. I thought I was done but after it dried I could see spots I missed so I pressure washed it again without noticeable improvement. I scraped at some of it with a screwdriver before letting it soak a few days in the parts washer and have been scrubbing it with wire wheels, scotch brite pads and wire toothbrushes. It still shows dirt in spots when I let it dry. I canít get into the tighter corners with a wire wheel.

    Used Easy Off on some other parts and got similar results although it didnít take as quite as much effort. I did notice more corrosion after using the Easy Off.

    I have been tempted to do some of this in the sandblaster but my cabinet is a little small for a transmission and it could be a challenge to get all of the media out of the transmission when done.

    The idea is to get it worth painting. I wanted to see what kind of cleaning tips a thread like this might produce. Not just for the greasy chunks but for frame restoration/paint prep as well.
    Jeff
    '51 CJ3A
    '47 CJ2A

  2. #2
    Super Moderator LarrBeard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    2,175
    Do you have access to anyone with a hot tank, maybe a local engine rebuilder or machine shop? The sodium hydroxide/caustic based cleaners and heat seem to do the best job of dislodging stubborn crud. They actually emulsify it and make it water soluble.

    But - perseverence, poking with screwdrivers (popsicle sticks get into rounded corners) and just going over it again and again work too.

    GMWillys has a lot of history and experience with getting things clean over at the Rust Ranch - he'll drop in here with comments fairly soon I'm sure.

  3. #3
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    925
    Larrbeard hit on the head....
    A hot tank is the best, they will put it in overnight usually and let it bake and it will come out like a brand new case!!!

  4. #4
    Super Moderator bmorgil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Northwestern Ohio
    Posts
    2,482
    I have a large parts washer filled with mineral spirits. I go after it with screw drivers and scrapers, let it soak in the spirits for a few days and then go after it with a stiff nylon brush and blow it off with air. It is hard to beat mineral spirits when you are dissolving grease.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator gmwillys's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    3,017
    At the rust ranch, I use Horrible Freight nylon abrasive brushes on everything. They work good on frames, cast iron components, and sheet metal. I'm a big fan of the brushes, and buy them by the gross. The brushes are run with a 3/8" variable speed drill. It's a bit time consuming, but the metal surface is ready for paint after running prep-sol over it before spraying primer.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gmwillys; 01-20-2022 at 07:45 AM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member TJones's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Akron, Ohio
    Posts
    925
    That’s better than sand blasting it gm!!!
    It doesn’t warp

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •